The Destroyer Radar Picket Ship (DDR) was invented in late 1944 to address new needs. The Imperial Japanese Navy was gone – destroyed at the Philippine Sea and at Leyte Gulf. There was little remaining need for quick and nimble fast destroyers making daring night torpedo attacks on massive battleships and heavy cruisers. The very ships that had destroyed the Japanese fleet had, by doing so, made themselves obsolete. The new threat was the kamikaze. A ship was needed that could patrol the far fringes of the fleet, was heavily outfitted with new advanced height finding radar, could provide early warning of a kamikaze’s arrival, carried the equipment, radios and radars required to vector CAP (combat air patrol) fighters to interceptions, carried the equipment to distinguish friend from foe and was heavily armed with anti-aircraft guns for self defense.

Chevalier was one of the first DDRs to be completed. Immediately after her conventional construction, she was refitted as a DDR. The Gearing class was selected for this particular conversion because it was the only destroyer class large enough to accommodate the changes and also to have a long enough range to be able to operate essentially independently for lengthy periods.

There were actually at least two major variations of the DDR. This model of Chevalier is the earlier 1945 variant. In 1949 and 1950 the DDRs were upgraded with the improved SPS-8 radar which was too heavy for the tripod mainmast and required its removal. It actually was not until that time that these ships (including Chevalier) were actually officially reclassified as DDR. Until then, Chevalier was known simply as DD-805 or today as DD(R)-805.

In reality, the DDRs had little impact on WW2. Chevalier didn’t arrive on station in the Pacific until 1 July 1945. Her only action was in support of a bombardment of Wake Island on 1 August. After that she joined TF 38 entering Tokyo Bay for the Japanese surrender.

Nevertheless, the idea was nearly prescient and after the appearance of the high speed jet fighter/bomber during the Korean War and the early Cold War, the DDR quickly evolved into the fleet’s most important early warning tool of the 1950s.

This model was built from the Dragon USS Gearing kit. The Dragon Gearing kit is, with no question, the best plastic ship model kit that I have veer built at this scale. Certainly it is the most complete and most highly detailed that I have ever seen. I can’t vouch much for its detailed accuracy as Gearing since I built it as sister ship Chevalier after her DDR conversion, based largely on “as built” plans from May 1945. But, the overall detail is at times quite astonishing and since I assume that required considerable research, it must be quite accurate. But, it is not without some difficulties and confusion. This document will attempt to explain and detail those points.

The first issue is that out-of-the-box there are unfortunately only a few ships in a very limited time period that can be built from this kit without some modification. I will mention that the kit contains many additional parts. If the differences between ships are minor such as different quantities of 20mm guns or life rafts, the kit can probably accommodate it. But, before the construction of many early Gearings was even completed, they were already being converted to the DDR design. That change included additional radars a new tripod mainmast and landing of the torpedo tubes as well as many other more minor changes. Chevalier was one of the first of these conversions and will require a good deal of scratch building.

I chose Chevalier because detailed plans were available, she was one of the few Gearings to actually play some role in World War 2 (minor as it was) and because she was camouflaged in the attractive 1945 MS-22.

Other excellent build-up reports have already been written about this kit. You may find this document overly lengthy and overly detailed. But that is the way I build model ships. In an effort to speed up your use of this report, I have indicated problem areas or points of confusion in the kit in bold type.

And, as is common for Dragon models, the instructions are the worst part and attempt to spoil an otherwise superlative kit. I must say that they do seem to be improving in both accuracy and detail. But there are still far too many situations where the instructions are vague, poorly drawn, confusing or misleading (usually because arrows point to the wrong location) and require a magnifying glass to just get an idea of what’s going on. We have come to expect to work almost entirely from plans for poorly instructed resin models. But, in this case there are no plans to which to refer unless you buy them separately. If I had not had Chevalier’s plans for my use, I have no doubt at all that many parts would be installed incorrectly, upside down or just in the wrong place. We don’t expect that in a plastic kit. In order to be satisfactory to the masses, Dragon really needs to correct that problem. If printing costs are an issue today, perhaps they should try delivering an instruction CD, as the software industry began doing over a decade ago.

• Dragon’s 1/350 scale Gearing kit.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 Gearing photoetch set.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 generic doors and hatches photoetch set for many purposes. If you want to depict all open doors correctly, you’ll need 2 of these.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 generic floater net baskets photoetch set for vent screens and hawse pipe covers.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 generic cable reels photoetch set. No PE cable reels are provided by the kit or by the GMM enhancement PE set.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 generic railings photoetch set for a few unusual bits of railings.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 generic ladders photoecth set for a few unusual ladders.
• Gold Medal Models 1/350 Aircraft decal set for the hull number decals.
• A Line #29219 40 links per inch pre-blackened chain. Available at most model railroad shops.
• Assorted styrene, brass and aluminum sheets, rod and various shapes for scratch built details.
• Scale Scenic Brass Micro-Mesh #1652-3501 mesh decking for perforated decking on various platforms.
• L’Arsenal resin sailor figures.
• Special radars and antennas – please see immediately below.

To build a DDR you are going to need some relatively rare radars and antennas that are not included in either the kit or the GMM PE set made for the kit. Specifically:

• An SP radar (version 2). The earliest version had a fully round dish. In the second version, the top and bottom of the dish were slightly truncated. This should not be confused with the SPS-8 radar which was very different and not installed on Chevalier until 1949 or 1950. In 1945 Chevalier carried the second version of the SP radar. The earlier version of the SP is available in the GMM USS Missouri Fine Details PE set, the GMM USS Essex PE set, the GMM Modern USN Warship set and possibly in other sets from GMM or other manufacturers. I imagine it would be possible, but quite difficult, to properly represent this radar through scratch building. If you choose to use the closest PE available (as described above), to get it exactly right, you will still have to slightly modify the first version SP from these PE sets to be the second version.
• A YE antenna. This is available in the GMM USS Essex PE kit and probably several other locations as well. However, it was a very simple antenna that can be easily built from bits of leftover antenna or even from spare GMM floater net basket PE or spare railing in a real pinch.

You can get all the PE radar parts you need from the USS Essex GMM PE set, although the SP radar is the only really critical part (and technically speaking it still needs some modification). But, it is that specific radar that made the DDRs unique. I mention all of this since if you have ever used GMM’s Essex PE set or any GMM Battleship PE set, you may well have these parts leftover. And, of course, there may be other sources. Just be aware that to build a DDR you will need them or you will need to scratch build them.

• The Floating Drydock’s 1/96 scale plans for USS Chevalier in May 1945 by Thomas Walkowiak.
• US Destroyers in action part 4 – Squadron/Signal publications.
• Warship Perspectives Fletcher, Gearing & Sumner Class Destroyers In World War Two – Jeffery J Herne.
• Sumner-Gearing Class Destroyers, Their Design, Weapons and Equipment – Robert F Sumrall.
• Navsource.org photos.
• Destroyer History Foundation photos, information and advice.

This build does require skill and patience. Many of the parts are amazingly small and difficult to work with. Other build-up reports have been posted about this kit and I will not attempt to repeat every detail in this report.

Also, please note that I will NOT be assembling this kit in the order suggested in the instructions. Rather, it will be assembled in a logical bottom to top, inside to out sequence, and hopefully therefore will allow easy access to all parts and details.

I will also be detailing the build to the maximum possible extent. I’ll be using photoetch in all possible locations with a general preference for the finer detail GMM PE over the thicker PE supplied with the kit. I’ll also be adding quite a bit of scratch built (styrene and brass) detail as indicated by the plans.

And of course, I will be scratch building the tripod mainmast and the radars and antennas mounted on it. If you feel shy about this, perhaps you should build this kit as Gearing, which requires no scratch work.

This build is being modeled for the summer of 1945 as Chevalier made her way with TF38 to Tokyo Bay for the surrender ceremony.

During the modeled for period, Chevalier was painted in the classic MS-22 camouflage. But in 1945, due to a world-wide shortage of indigo pigment, that measure was adjusted to be considerably less blue than it was during the majority of the war. Ships already in commission dealt with the issue by extending their paints by mixing them with gray, which resulted in a good deal of color variation and splotchy paint jobs. It’s obviously difficult to judge just how much grayer Chevalier was from the black and white photos of the time. But, in 1945 the Navy had designated a few new colors to deal with the shortage of blue paint and I will attempt to duplicate them here to match Snyder and Short's color chips.

Navy Blue (5-N) was replaced by #7 Navy Gray which was obviously less blue, but was designed to have the same spectral qualities as Navy Blue. So it’s a dark gray with just a hint of blue.

Deck Blue (20-B) was replace by #4 Deck Gray (20) which was somewhat darker and less blue. In fact it looked nearly black.

Haze Gray (5-H) was replaced by #27 Haze Gray (5-H) which was considerably less blue and comes quite a bit closer to the obviously gray Haze Gray of later years.

I have no way to be certain that Chevalier carried these colors. But I’ve painted so many decks Deck Blue and hulls Navy Blue that the change will be a welcome one.

The hull is simple enough. The lower hull is detailed in step 5 of the instructions. Add the rudders and screw shafts. I’ll wait and add the fragile screws much later. Also add the sonar protuberance (should it be called a dome?), part C11 from step 6, at this time. Paint the lower hull Hull Red. Paint the screw shafts Brass.

At this time the only thing to add to the upper hull half are the screw guards as explained in step 5 of the instructions. The parts MA45 and MA47 depth charge rack supports mentioned in step 5 will be added much later along with the racks. The first error in the instructions is found here. The screw guard bending jigs are not parts D1 and D2 but rather F1 and F2. I chose to use the thicker Dragon PE parts MA25 for the screw guards. The GMM PE parts were just too thin to retain the bend given to them by the jig. It will take you a while to get the bends correct. Be aware, that it is only AFTER the bending on the two jigs that port and starboard version become different. See the drawings of the completed ship to figure out which is the port and starboard version. The instructions are not much help. The longer center bar should point forward and the horizontal supports are at the bottom. Paint the insides of the screw guards Navy Blue (5-N) at this time since you won’t be able to get to them later with an airbrush.

There is an issue with the top edge of the hull that I did not discover until step 20 of this document when I went to add the GMM main deck railings. There are many very small lines along the top edge of the hull that mark the locations for the main deck chocks. That’s fine if you do NOT intend to add railings. But if, like most of us, you do intend to add railings, those lines will prevent the railings from sitting level! If you use the GMM PE railings for this particular kit, you don’t need those lines anyway since the chocks are integrated with the railings. So, if you intend to add railings, remove all the marking lines from the top edge of the hull at this time. I assure you that it’s much more difficult to do later. Just a bit of advice to Dragon – used engraved slots to mark these locations rather than raised edges.

Combine the upper and lower hull parts and mask and paint the upper hull #7 Navy Gray 1945 below the sheer line, #27 Haze Gray (5-H) 1945 above the sheer line and paint a waterline Flat Black.

The first thing we need to do here is clear up a confusion surrounding the quantity and location of the K-guns. The kit includes plastic or alternatively, PE parts for 6 K-guns – 3 per side. The GMM PE set also includes parts for 6 K-guns. But, the instructions indicate the installation of only 4 guns – 2 per side! Furthermore, the main deck is molded for only 2 guns per side. The fact is that both Gearing and Chevalier carried 3 K-guns per side. This is a glaring and screaming error in the instructions which, unfortunately, is not unusual in Dragon kits. A note near the end of the GMM instructions points out this error in the Dragon instructions and in the design of the main deck part. It also states that the third K-gun on each side should be located half way between the other two. That looks to be correct.

My intent is to use the plastic K-gun launchers and davits in conjunction with the GMM storage racks and scratch made depth charges there. My experience is that for that combination the mounting holes in the deck are more of an annoyance than a benefit. So, I’ll fill all 8 mounting holes now with putty and re-drill later if required.

For Chevalier, there is a modification needed aft. She had a modified 20mm tub on the stern with only 2 guns mounted, rather than the standard 3 guns. Cut the aft point off the shield to a width of 12/32” minimum and add a bit of brass or styrene across the back (see the included photos). You’ll also need to putty fill the mounting hole for the 3rd aft gun and the mounting slots for the two side positioned ready ammo boxes. There is no need to add braces to the new aft shield section. Instead, the two ammo boxes that would have mounted on the sides mount end to end across the inside of the new shield section flush against it. However, I’ll paint and add all ammo boxes later. I also added a small bit of rectangular styrene outside the shield to represent the “telephone locker” indicated in the plans. Additionally, this modified shield had an unusual height profile which is easily accomplish with a small flat file. See the photos.

Actually, every drawing of Chevalier that I have ever seen in several books incorrectly shows her with the standard 3 gun installation aft. But, Walkowiak’s plans and several photos show the modified 2 gun structure in May ‘45.

Now I’ll add an assortment of other kit parts to the main deck as follows:

• The deck hatches, parts G46 fore and aft as shown in step 2 and GMM generic scuppers on each with hinges pointing forward. To do this correctly for a non-combat mode ship, the hatches should be open with ladders extending downward from each. An “open hatch” (not unlike the doors in the kit) alternative part would be a big improvement.
• A small bit of styrene rod as a pressure equalization pipe next to each part G46 hatch.
• The chain locker covers, parts G3 and G4 as described in step 2. Be sure you have the port and starboard versions correct with the curve pointing outboard. I intend to use real 3D 40 links per inch anchor chain rather than either the kits part MA4 or the GMM supplied PE chain. The chain you chose to use must be able to pass between parts G3 and G4. In order to accomplish this I had to file off the mounting rectangles for parts G3 and G4 and relocate the parts about 1/32” farther apart.
• The smoke generator, part G5, aft as shown in step 2 with its fins pointing forward and aft.
• Part G6 aft as shown in step 2. Note that the higher mid post on this part is a mushroom vent. The shorter posts are used as bitts.
• I’ll add a GMM generic scuttle to the top of the man hatch in the center of the aft 20mm tub - hinge forward of course.

There is one more problem in the instructions here. They indicate in step 2 that part G7 (a manhatch with scupper it would appear, or possibly a mushroom vent) should be added to the mounting hole that should actually contain the port 20mm gun. That is obviously very wrong. Meanwhile there is a mounting hole somewhat starboard in front of the aft 20mm shield. It would seem that is where part G7 belongs. However, neither the plans nor any photo or drawing that I have shows that item on Chevalier. So, I filled the mounting hole with putty and ignored part G7. I actually don’t see this hatch in any drawings of Gearing either. So, I don’t know about its applicability to Gearing. Photos of some sister ship sterns do seem to show such a hatch, but it is always centered not slightly starboard.

That’s all for now. The capstan (part G5 forward) will be painted and added after the deck is painted.

Aft 20mm shield detail

Aft 20mm shield profile

Forecastle detail

Now paint the main deck #4 Deck Gray (20) 1945 and any vertical surfaces (aft 20mm shields etc.) #27 Haze Gray (5-H) 1945.

Now add the last detail to the main deck that is easier to deal with before the deck is added to the hull:

• The capstan (Part G5) painted Metallic Gray on its sides and Deck Gray on its top.
• The anchor chains. The diagram in step 8 of the instructions is woefully inadequate! Who could possibly figure out how to properly install the chains from that image? Certainly not me. But, luckily I have experience with several destroyer chain designs (they were all about the same) and I have the formal plans for Chevalier. See the photo of the chains below. You can use the MA44 PE 2d chain provided with the kit (good luck) or the 2d PE chain provided by GMM or real 3d chain (A Line #29219 40 links per inch ) as I did. Touch-up with Flat Black and a little nearly dry-brush on the chains with Flat Black helps a bit.
• There are 8 little stub posts sticking up from the main deck (4 each side) alongside the deckhouse bulkheads. These were emergency boiler and fuel shut-off valve stems. I’ll eventually add a metallic gray painted generic hand-wheel from the GMM PE set on each of those posts. But only after the deckhouse has been added. For now I’ll just put a dab of Haze Gray paint on the top of each so I can find them later.
• Neither the kit nor the GMM PE include hawsepipe grates. They should. The plans however do show them. They prevented the uncomfortable experience of falling into those tubes. The version in the plans are long, curving and narrow and would be very difficult to scratch make at this scale. So, as I have done before, I’ll use the half moon end of two GMM generic floater net baskets, covering only the forward end of the tubes. Not quite right – but at least something is there.

Tempting as it may be, I’m not going to add the main deck non-skid decals at this time. In fact, I’ll delay until after the deckhouse is added. That will allow me to use some masking tape to hold the deck in place on the hull while the glue dries. Masking tape will quickly remove most decals. And it will also allow me to get a better alignment between the decal and the deckhouse doors later on.

So, now add the deck to the hull being careful to get a good alignment all around the edges. For some reason, its fit on my hull is, as Borat would say,” not so much”. Further, in order to fit right, it needs to bend in 3 dimensions. So, I’ll break convention and use plastic glue rather than CA; which will allow me to “jockey” it into correct location and will also require tape to hold it in place for a while. For future sanity, it’s actually quite important that the deck and hull edge cutouts for the bitts align perfectly.

Now carefully paint all the top edges of the hull Deck Gray.

This is also a good time to add the bitts (parts C5 and C4) as indicated in step 7 of the instructions. I won’t be adding the kit’s chocks since they are built into the GMM railing PE.

And last, in this step, I’m going to assemble, paint and add the motor winch that goes in the cross deck passageway – just so it doesn’t get forgotten. It will indeed be hard to install after the deckhouse is added. There are two parts to it, as shown in the inset diagram in step 2. I’ll add it with the cross deck bulkheads dry fitted in place - just to be sure it fits correctly. Via block and tackle arrangements, this winch could be used on either side.

Assembled hull and main deck

Anchor chain detail

This is going to be a bit of a challenge for two reasons.

First, there are 14 parts that make up the deck house bulkheads. All those parts must fit together perfectly and fit within the indented area of the main deck and with the O-1 level piece. That’s 16 parts total that all need to fit properly. That’s not easy and I sense trouble ahead. There are several different possible approaches to this. But, more about this later.

The second issue is the addition of detail to the bulkheads. You say – WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? These are the most highly detailed bulkheads I’ve ever imagined. And, you are absolutely correct in that statement. If I was building Gearing, I would probably trust Dragon to have gotten it right and just add them as they are – possibly even with the molded-on ladders. But, I’m not building Gearing. I’m building Chevalier (and starting to slightly regret that decision). The point is that the plans for these bulkheads on Chevalier are quite different in many places than they were for Gearing. Unfortunately these two ships were built at different shipyards – Gearing at Federal Shipbuilding and Chevalier at Bath Ironworks. Whenever that happens, details like placement of fire hose reels, cable reels, oil tank vents, vertical ladders and endless other detail varies from shipyard to shipyard. So, despite my great temptation to just use the Gearing style bulkheads, I’m going to be removing and replacing many details. My biggest regret is those beautifully molded fire hose reels, many of which will need to come off or be relocated. I wish more than one as an individual part (part A23) had been provided with the kit. That would add a lot of flexibility to this kit.

It looks like I’ll be removing every molded fire hose rack (too bad) and replacing them with GMM PE racks – so they all look the same. I’ll also be removing all of the fog foam nozzles, all the oil tank vents (not many) and the molded in bulkhead mounted davits and replacing them with bits of wire (hint: use brass wire for the fog foam nozzles) – again, so they all look the same.

I’ll itemize the changes here.

• Part A3 – removed everything and file it smooth. I’ll add on the forward section – 2 fire hose racks, a cable reel on the ship center line (larger than what is provided in the kit) and 1 fire plug on the ship center line. On the outboard section I’ll add – 2 fire hose racks, one fire plug and 2 fog foam nozzles.
• Part A6 – removed both fire hose racks, the molded ladder and the vent box. I’ll replace the ladder with PE and add a couple of screens on the vents and a scratch made vent box of the right shape with a screen.
• Part A12 – removed 2 fire hose rack and 2 ladders, the large locker center, the vent box and davits aft. I’ll replace both ladders with PE and add an oil tank vent, 5 valves, a screen vent and replace the two davits aft.
• Part A5 – no changes
• Part A7 – removed 2 ladders, a large vent box and davits aft. I’ll replace the ladders with PE and the davits and add 2 screen vents, a fire hose rack, a fire plug, an oil tank vent, a locker with a door, hatches on 2 other lockers and a small box forward by the vent screen.
• Part A4 – removed a fire hose rack, a fog foam nozzle and an oil tank vent. I’ll add a fire hose rack, a fog foam nozzle, one screen vent, two oil tank vents and a fire plug.
• Part A11 – removed the ladder and the fog foam nozzle. I’ll add one fire hose rack and a fog foam nozzle. The ladder will not be replaced.
• Part A14 – Add a small screen vent.
• Part A8 – removed the ladder, davits and both lockers/vents – I’ll add a PE ladder far aft, a couple of davits, an oil tank vent and two small lockers.
• Part A10 – removed aft rope reel and everything forward of the door – I’ll add a PE vertical rope reel, 3 screen vents, 3 PE cable reels, 2 fire hose racks, 2 valves, a davit, a fire plug and a ladder somewhat forward.
• Part A13 – removed everything between the cross deck passageway and the large locker forward of the aft ladder and remove the forward ladder – I’ll add a cable reel aft, 2 fire plugs, 2 fire hose racks, a fuel hose rack, 2 PE ladders, 2 screen vents and an oil tank vent forward.
• Part A9 – removed the screen vent and the fog foam nozzle. I’ll add a scratch made screen vent and a fog foam nozzle.
• Part A2 (forward cross-deck passageway bulkhead) – I’ll add a control box and batteries port and 2 control boxes and a mail box amid. Note that both doors open inwards, hinged to port, and therefore being usually open in non-combat situations, are invisible and not required in this build.
• Part A1 – no changes to part A1 but note that the port door opens inward and like the doors on Part A2 and are thus not required in this build.

I have not yet fully decided the best approach to combining all these parts. But I do know that painting the individual bulkheads Haze Gray now can’t hurt anything.

So, now I’ll spray each bulkhead part and everything that adds to them that should be painted Haze Gray. That means that fire hose racks, cable and rope reels, fire plugs (which actually add to the deck anyway), the fuel hose rack and doors, which will NOT be painted entirely Haze Gray, will be added later after the bulkheads are painted. The addition of PE ladders will be postponed a while to coincide with the installation of railings on the O1 level. Add all the other details suggested above and paint them all #27 Haze Gray (5-H) 1945.

I have decided to paint the fog foam nozzles Haze Gray rather than red – consistent with the camouflage rules. Certainly, after the war they were red and during the mid war they were painted to match the camouflage. Nevertheless, the tips were probably always bare brass. So, now I’ll scrape just a little paint off the end of the fog foam nozzles, which were specifically made from brass wire for this purpose.

The assembly of the deck house will be postponed until after the O1 level deck is fully modified for use on Chevalier, since the deck house must fit well onto that deck.

Before I complete the deck house I want to make sure that all required changes to its top, the O1 level, are complete. There are actually many differences for Chevalier, as might be expected.

Changes to the O1 Deck
The following changes are required. It will help to refer to the O1 level deck insert in step 2 of the kit’s instructions.

• File off the torpedo mount and fill the hole with putty. Chevalier carried no torpedo tubes.
• File off the mounting tube for the torpedo crane and fill the hole with putty. It’s the starboard vertical tube just aft of the torpedo mount. It’s not needed for Chevalier, so get rid of the mounting tube and hole. In case you have difficulty figuring it out from the instructions (as did I) the torpedo crane is part H13.
• The forward part of the starboard quad 40mm shield was different for Chevalier. It was less angular and considerably more rounded. The trouble here is that if I make that change then the GMM 40mm ammo racks PE, which I would very much like to use, won’t fit at all. So, I just trimmed off the part of the shield that extends inboard (which was not on Chevalier) and left the rest somewhat angular rather than somewhat rounded.
• All of the kit’s plastic floater net baskets (part H23) will be replaced with PE from the GMM set. Further, Chevalier’s floater baskets were in very different locations. So, the 5 small triple mounting slots for the Dragon floater baskets on the O1 level should be filled with putty (see the O1 level deck insert in step 2 of the instructions for the locations of parts H23).
• The aft most 40mm shield was just a bit different. First, parts H22 (they look like some sort of screened vent) did not exist on Chevalier. Instead, the forward opening in the shield was about 1/16” wider (all on the port side). I’ll have to trim just a bit off the GMM ammo racks later. There was nothing starboard of that opening and there was a ready ammo locker where the port part H22 is indicated. I’ll add that later after the deck is painted. For now, trim off the port shield opening and fill the mounting slots for both parts H22 with putty.
• The port aft 40mm shield is correct for Chevalier. However there was some sort of small gear locker mounted outboard of the shield aft. Neither of the 2 slots for parts H22 are needed. Fill them both with putty. For Chevalier, the aft part H22 slot was covered by a “gun gear locker”, which I will build and add later after the deck is painted. The Chevalier plans show no evidence of part A17 (whatever it is). So I also filled its slot with putty and will not be using it.
• I’ll be using the GMM PE for all three of the aft MK51 platforms. The deck has somewhat “bumpy” mounting shapes for these platforms, but the GMM supports will be completely square. So, just to be safe, I’ll file flat all three mounting shapes.
• The deck has mounting slots for 2 parts H30, 20mm ready ammo boxes, inboard of the aft 20mm gun. However, unlike the kit, for Chevalier these two boxes were aligned fore and aft. I’ll putty fill the mounting slots for both boxes and add parts H30 later, after the deck is painted, in different locations.
• Part H14, whatever it is, did not exist in Chevalier. So I’ll fill its mounting slot with putty.
• There is no evidence that part A22 (something inside the forward edge of the port 40mm shield) existed on Chevalier. But, no mounting hole exists, so just don’t use the part. It may be an effort to show a helmet rack. Most 40mm tubs had at least one (more commonly two). I will be adding scratch made helmet racks later.
• The aft portion of the deck contains 4 round or square stubs that represent “passing scuttles”, aft and inboard of the port 40mm tub, forward and inside the shield of the starboard 20mm tub, forward of the port 40mm tub and inside the forward edge of the starboard 40 mm tub. The third of those (forward of the port 40mm tub) did not exist on Chevalier – so file it off. The other three did exist at the represented locations. I’ll add a GMM generic scuttle to those three.
• Keep the slot for part A16, an electrical board. Also keep the slot for part H28, a beautifully molded aft steering station. Both parts existed on Chevalier.
• But, just forward of the aft steering station, putty fill the slots for 2 parts H30, part H22, part A19 and part H24, none of which appear to have existed on Chevalier. Part A20 inside the starboard 40mm tub also does not appear to have existed on Chevalier, but there is no slot that needs to be filled.
• Fill the slot for part G17 aft of the aft stack. Chevalier had nothing there.
• Fill the slot for parts H26 and H21 port of the aft stack. Chevalier had one single larger “gear locker” in that location which will be added later after the deck is painted.
• Fill the slot for part H20 starboard of the aft stack. Chevalier had nothing there. But keep the mounting hole for part A18 which did exist on Chevalier.
• Fill the slots for parts H15 and G18 forward of the aft stack. There was noting there.
• There is a man hatch just port and aft of the aft stack. It did exist on Chevalier. I’ll add a GMM generic scuttle to its top.
• The deck contains a small rectangular box port and forward of the aft stack. This does not seem to have existed on Chevalier. File it off.
• There are 5 small mounting holes port of the aft stack near the deck edges. Be sure to keep these open. They will be used later for the port 20mm tub support posts.
• Just forward of the aft stack there are two mounting rectangles for the 5” practice loader. That instrument was relocated just behind the forward stack on Chevalier. So, file off the mounting plates and fill the holes.
• The area near the forward stack is correct for Chevalier. We’ll need two parts H17 and one part A21.
• The far forward O1 deck on Chevalier had 4 ammo lockers and one “pyro” locker in somewhat different locations than the 6 ammo lockers indicated in the kit. I’ll just fill all 6 mountings slots and add the parts (4 part H30s and one scratch built pyro locker) in the correct locations after the deck is painted. There was also a man hatch centered forward. I’ll add a GMM generic scuttle to it.

Aft O1 level ready for painting

Forward O1 level ready for painting

Now paint it Deck Gray and paint all vertical surfaces Haze Gray. The outboard edges of the part and the undersides of all overhanging surfaces should also be painted Haze Gray.

Assembling the Deck House
Before I add any more fragile (or otherwise) parts to the O1 deck, I’m going to get the deckhouse built. After considerable test fitting of its bulkhead parts I’m confident that it’s the fit to the main deck that is going to be the issue. Now that they are painted, often the fit within the main deck cutout is tight. I would prefer to deal with that part by part. So, my plan is to add the deckhouse bulkheads to the main deck a few at a time. For the most part I’ll use plastic glue for this so that there is a bit more time to adjust things. After every few parts, I’ll dry fit the O1 level to the top and adjust things as required until it all gets a nice fit.

In order to decrease the total quantity of pieces to be dealt with, I am going to pre-glue a few parts together with CA glue and carefully test fit them to the deck. The point here is that there is only one correct location for each bulkhead relative to the deck with a location tolerance of less than 1/64”. But the location on the O1 level has a bit more flexibility.

• Glue together parts A7 and A5 – they get a good fit with the deck and leave no visible joint.
• Glue together parts A8 and A14 – they fit well with the deck and leave no visible joint.
• Glue together parts A11 and A4 (aft parts) – they get a decent fit but I’ll do a little clean-up and repainting of the joint.
• Glue together parts A3 and A9 (forward parts) – again, the fit is pretty good but I will touchup the joint just a bit.
• Glue the combined parts A8 plus A14 to part A10. This fit is “not so much”. In fact, it’s not good at all. In order to get this combination to fit into the slots on the deck I had to do quite a bit of filing on the A14 to A10 joint (mostly on part A14). I probably reduced its width by half. The result is also a bad looking joint that needs putty and painting.
• Glue the combined parts A7 plus A5 to part A12. This is quite similar to the previous combination. The fit is only so-so but just a little putty, filing and paint corrects the problem.

Test fitting of the remaining parts indicates that there will be a few visible joints and just a little bit of touchup that can probably all be done with a file and brush and without putty.

Before I actually add the bulkhead parts to the deck (while they are still easy to work with), I’m going to add many of the remaining details to the bulkheads. But I will postpone the addition of anything that’s close to an unfinished joint just in case I need to do some filing or painting.

• Almost dry brush all the screen vents with a dark gray
• Add the fuel hose rack to bulkhead part A13. I think the kit provides no such part, although it actually could be there somewhere hidden away in the instructions. I scratch built it from styrene rod and sheet.
• Add the valve wheels (from the GMM PE) – 5 on part A12 and 2 on part A10.
• I’ll add some of the fire hose racks – 1 on part A7, 2 on part A10 and 2 on part A13. I’ll leave the rest until after the bulkheads have been installed and potentially painted at the joints.
• I’ll add kit part A15 (hand cart) – a great idea Dragon - to the starboard bulkhead.
• I’ll add kit part G27 (fenders) painted in a sort of dirty canvas to the starboard bulkhead and paint the two bulkhead molded fenders just forward of there the same.
• Now I’ll add the doors. See below.

A few words about Chevalier’s deck house doors. All were marked for condition Zebra. Thus, in a non-combat mode, all would be open. Good work Dragon. Someone finally came up with a design that leaves all the doors open. Obviously, a door can always be glued over the open hole if the model is being done in a combat situation. The Chevalier plans show the following for the deckhouse:

• 4 doors port – all quick acting - all hinged forward
• 9 doors starboard – all quick acting except doors # 4, 5 and 8, which were standard dogged doors. All 9 doors were hinged forward.
• 4 standard doors in the cross deck passageway. All but one of those opened “inward”. So unless you want to close them, since they will be totally invisible if open, there is no reason to even add them. Only the starboard door on the aft bulkhead opened outward and was hinged inboard.

The PE doors provided with the kit are nice because, being 2 sided PE (a nice concept), they can double as either open or closed doors. But actually, with the exception of a few doors that are sometimes seen on bridges and such, you can’t see the back of an open door anyway. So what does it matter? In this case, Dragon’s design of the inside of quick acting doors is wrong. So, I’ll be using the GMM PE doors (from their generic doors and hatches set) which are only one sided but do provide a correct quick acting open door. I’ll paint the insides of the doors Pale Gray. I do realize that these doors are just a bit too wide for this ship. But, I’ll sacrifice that in return for getting a correct open door image.

That’s it. Now is the time to actually finally add the bulkheads to the main deck. I admit it; I’ve been procrastinating on this. I’ll start with the large mid-sections that have assorted indentations and such into which they simply must fit. Then add the two cross-deck passageway bulkheads in order to be sure the side bulkheads are properly positioned. Then last, the fore and aft sections. The only difficulties I had were in the forward section where a small bit of the lower joint tabs needed to be removed in order to get the parts wedged into place and in the aft section where I had to remove the tabs and file maybe 1/32” off the ends of each side. All in all it went much better than I feared but not quite as well as I had hoped. In all great hindsight it is now obvious to me that because of the way the joints are tabbed, these parts are meant to be added to the underside of the O1 level first, then the whole assembly to the deck. But in that case, getting a good fit with the deck would be near to impossible I think.

I have only 4 joints (one on each side of the fore and aft sections) that could use a little filing and maybe a bit of putty on the aft starboard joint.

Now I’ll prepare and add the remaining details from the kit that belong on or adjacent to the bulkheads: See step 2 of the instructions.

• Part G14 (gas pumps) – one on each side. These don’t fit correctly. I had to file the mounting tab off their bottoms.
• I’ll add a drop of Micro Kristal Klear inside each of the 7 portholes (4 starboard and 3 port).
• The remaining fire hose racks – two forward on part A3, two outboard starboard on part A3, one on part A4 and one on part A11.
• I’ll add 6 life rings (3 per side) forward, amid and aft (see note on life rings and Stokes litters below).
• Stokes litters (see note on life rings and Stokes litters below). There’s not a lot of empty space left on the bulkheads and I want to be certain that I don’t add one where a vertical ladder will need to be later. But, I think I found two good spots, one on each side (see photos).

Note concerning life rings and stokes litters. The plans for Chevalier show none of either. But, based on photos of other Gearings, they were there. Further, by late WW2 attention to crew survivability was becoming a greater concern than it was in the early war. So I chose to add some in available spaces on the bulkheads.

• Part G21 twice – oxygen gas bottles. Caution, there is a very small tab halfway up that should position against the bulkhead. (see note below)
• Part G20 four times – acetylene gas bottles. (see note below)

Parts like this are a very nice addition to any kit. Good work Dragon! Three thumbs up! Note that I’ll paint the gas bottles consistent with the US Navy gas bottle painting rules of 1943. The bodies were consistent with the camouflage behind. Oxygen had green tops and acetylene had blue tops with a red stripe below. Also note that my plans for Chevalier only show one clearly labeled gas bottle just inside the starboard edge of the cross deck passageway. Nevertheless, these items moved around from ship to ship at crew discretion. And, certainly they did exist. So, I chose to go with the kit’s suggestions. I did not add the one inside the cross-deck passageway since all bottles provided with the kit were already used and that one would be virtually invisible anyway.

Also note that kit parts H27, K45 and A23 will not be used. They have either already been replaced by scratch built items or will later be replaced by PE items.

This is not easy and it must be done correctly. First, my experience with Dragon decals is pretty good but they tend to not be quite as precise as they might be. So, before I add anything else to the deck or the bulkheads, I’m going to add them. You can always put something on top of a decal, but it’s difficult indeed to put a decal under something that’s already been added.

When I was mixing the 1945 Deck Gray color I tried several slightly different shades and added some extra non-skid decals to each test strip. I wanted to be sure that whatever shade I ended up using allowed the decals to be visible. The colors are similar. I found that the shade that I am now using covered with two fairly thick coats of Micro Set and a light coat of Micro Sol after decal addition, made a very nice looking combination with no silvering at all. So, I’ll try that again. Hope it still works. I know many of you will use Future at this point. My experience with Future is that it overly darkens dark paint and I didn’t want that here. Micro Set just adds a certain “sheen” (which happens to be quite appropriate for an often wet destroyer deck), but has minimal effect on the color intensity.

Note that for Chevalier the decal that goes inside the aft 20mm shield will need some trimming first.

These decals are good ones – the decals themselves anyway. They soak off easily, are sturdy, don’t break (if handled with care), allow a lot of tweaking and show no silvering. But, they are sometimes WRONG! They seem to have been designed for addition BEFORE the addition of the bulkheads. And that makes little sense since alignment of decals and doors would then be impossible. Nevertheless, without some trimming here and there, non-skid would be running up the sides of the bulkheads. If the intent was that they be added before the bulkheads, the instructions should have made that clear.

They can also be difficult to align. I started aft and that was a mistake. At one point I had 5 decals floating on water simultaneously until I was able to figure out the correct positioning for alignment. A decent image of their locations in the instructions would have helped a lot. Hint – start forward or amidships.

I had to trim the following decals to get them to fit correctly. Note that none of this was due to Gearing/Chevalier differences:

• #18 – removed aft door tab
• #17 – removed inside track aft to fit around bulkheads
• #16 – removed inside track aft to fit around bulkheads, cut a notch for the gas pump and relocated forward door tab
• #15 – cut notch for the gas pump and relocated door tabs

There are several things still to be added on and around the deckhouse bulkheads.

Cable Reels

• One small bulkhead mounted rope reel forward on part A3.
• One small bulkhead mounted cable reel on part A10.
• One medium size deck mounted cable reel alongside part A13.
• Two large deck mounted cable reels (different orientations) alongside part A10.
• One large vertically deck mounted rope reel on part A10.
• Three reels of unknown purpose (they look like emergency power cable reels), one aft on part A10 and two forward on part A9.

Fire Plugs
All told, I’ll need 7 single fire plugs and 2 double plugs. These are scratch made from styrene rod and small GMM valve wheels. I’ll paint them red with brass ends. They were probably actually painted Haze Gray, but I would like you to be able to see them – so red they are. See photos below for their locations.

Main Deck Emergency Valve Wheels
I’ll add a small valve wheel on each of those 8 little deck posts that we painted gray earlier.

While I’m working on the main deck, I’ll finish up the aft 20mm tub by adding the three 20mm ammo lockers (parts H30) as positioned for Chevalier and I’ll add two rung ladders on the front of the tub. I’ll also add the capstan brake wheel now before I forget it.

All other main deck detail (depth charge roller racks, stowage racks, K-guns and stowage racks, assorted davits, rails, chocks, jackstaff, etc.) are all just finger traps that I’ll add much later. Although I suspect that the amidships bulwarks (spray shields) may come along soon, after some test fitting up front. And, it appears that I may have some fit troubles with the bulkhead doors just aft of those shields. But for now, the main deck and its deckhouse bulkheads area are done.

Deckhouse Forward

Deckhouse Starboard #1

Deckhouse Starboard #2

Deckhouse Starboard #3

Deckhouse Starboard #4

Deckhouse Aft and Starboard

Deckhouse Aft and Port

Deckhouse Port #1

Deckhouse Port #2

Deckhouse Port #3

Deckhouse Port #4

Deckhouse Port and Forward

Cross Deck Passageway

In any build, before I add any significant part (such as the O1 deck), I want to be certain that all parts that need to attach to it do so without need of trimming, filing or modification to that part. So, now I’m going to take a break from the deckhouse first level and make sure that the higher levels and the stacks fit the O1 deck without difficulties. There do appear to be some differences for Chevalier. But none affect the assembly’s footprint or its ability to mate properly with the O1 level.

I prepared and combined (with tape) the bridge assembly (parts B33, B34, B30 and B19). It fits the O1 deck well. I also learned that its deck unit (part B23) can be added AFTER the assembly of the other parts; which will make painting easier.

I prepared part B22 (forward twin 20mm tubs) and found that it also fits well. Actually, by the time all parts are painted I would not be surprised if the fit of this part with the bridge assembly will be very tight. But I see no reason yet to modify the O1 level in any way. I did not test parts B18 and B27 of this assembly. But, if there is a problem with fit to the O1 level, I suspect it can be quickly corrected with a small file.

I prepared and tested both stack bases (B14 and B15) and, after a small bit of filing on one of the mounting pins, it all fit well.

I’ll also make one other modification to the O1 deck part. On the starboard side forward there is a narrow strip running fore and aft. I have no idea what this was on Gearing but the plans for Chevalier don’t show it. So, I’ll cut it off.

The only thing that bothers me is the fit of the bulwarks (parts A25 + A26 port and A27 + A28 starboard). The kit’s instructions would have me add these in step 6 – long after the O1 level has been added. It implies that somehow (almost magically) they will simply slide into a confined and concealed space and fit perfectly. For some reason I question that. Further, it’s a huge violation of my bottom-up, inside-out rule. Now I concede the fact that until the O1 level is added, it’s impossible to know exactly where the bulwark parts should be added. The GMM main deck railings could serve as a guide, but I just don’t want to add them yet. I know my fingers – they WILL get damaged. Anyway, the point is that they must align properly with the overhang on the O1 deck. To test ideas I prepared both bulwarks (be VERY careful they break very easily) and found that adding them after the O1 deck has been added will be a small nightmare. There is just no way that I can do that well. Conclusion – this is a really bad plan on the part of the kit’s design and instructions. Let’s see if I can find a better way to do it.

Another difficulty has become apparent. The starboard bulwark fits nicely, but the port one is just a touch short for the space. There must be some minor difference in the installed heights of the bulkhead - no doubt my error somehow.

I’ll also point out that the plans for Chevalier do not show actual doors in parts A25 and A27. They specifically describe a door shaped opening there as an “archway”. It does seem odd to me that there would be no closable doors in these locations. But I also seem to recall reading somewhere that the Sumners and Gearings had a full length fore and aft passageway inside the deckhouse. Unlike the Fletchers, there was no need to go on deck in a storm. So, I’ll not add any doors here.

Anyway it’s now time to combine the two bulwark parts on each side, file and smooth the joint, paint them and install them on the deck by using the O1 level deck as a location guide. I was able to improve the gap on the port side above the bulwark with a little filing on the tops of the bulkheads in that area but it may still require a bit of putty. If I tried to avoid that gap by gluing it to the O1 deck, then the gaps below the bulwark “feet” would be much more difficult to repair. I’ll also have to remove and re-install the bulkhead door on each side just behind the forward end of the bulwarks. The plans indicate there should be more than enough space there for a fully open door. But, the kit just does not quite live up to that expectation.

Take your time here in combining the two bulkhead parts that are usually designed as one part. If you don’t get the connection angle right, it won’t fit right. This is one of the most challenging parts of this model! It seems to me that there could be other designs. In fact when any model has a deck edge interrupting a connection between higher and lower surfaces when that entire surface should be smooth (as is the true in this case), something should be redesigned. Perhaps if part B22 overlapped the outside of the O1 level deck part, rather than sitting upon it, and some sort of mounting pin indicated the correct location for the bulwark, this would all turn out being easier and looking better. Or, an even better idea is that the outside surface of part B22 should be a separate part that extends all the way down to the main deck and includes the middle portion of the bulwark, thus forming one solid and smooth surface.

NOTE: You should read step 20 “The Bulwarks Chocks” of this document. It would certainly be somewhat easier to add the chocks at this point before the bulwarks are added.

Anyway – back to the present – its time now to add the bulwarks to the edge of the main deck carefully aligned with a dry fitted O1 level and carefully positioned along the deck edge (actually they attach to the top edge of the hull). Then replace the two removed doors. And finally, add the O1 level.

Bulwarks added

The most significant differences between Gearing and Chevalier occur here. I’ve already dealt with many of those changes in earlier steps. But now its time to add the O1 level non-skid decals.

The Chevalier changes include, of course, the addition of a new tripod mainmast on the O1 level, landing of the torpedo tubes, relocation of the 5” practice loader and relocation of the searchlight platform. There are also many changes in gear and ammo locker locations and sizes. The non-skid decals will need modification and in order to do the best that I can with that, I’ll build a few larger assemblies now so I can see how they fit and impact the decals. I will not add them yet.

• The forward twin 40mm platform (B22) and bulkheads below (B18 and B27), which defines the forward edge of the operational aft O1 level.
• The 5” practice loader (from the kit’s plastic parts as shown in steps J1 and J2 on the first page of the kit’s instructions); which will relocate just behind the fore stack (thus remove the mounting tabs from the bottoms of these).
• The MK51 director platforms using kit parts H4 and the GMM PE support structures (the two taller ones go forward and the shorter is aft).
• The searchlight platform. This is a more significant issue since it is very different from the Gearing version that mounted on the aft stack. It will now mount just a bit aft of where the torpedo tubes used to mount on top of a frame support structure. Luckily, we have two unused platform support structures in kit parts MA40 that are exactly the correct height. One of these would make a very acceptable searchlight support structure. But, for Chevalier at least, that structure was just a bit different, with the legs angling somewhat outward. So, I’ll modify MA40 by cutting off the bottom cross braces, bending the legs outward a bit and adding a cross brace (PE sprue) to the more or less middle of each side. Now it looks like Chevalier’s searchlight support structure. The top platform is a 10/32” circle cut from thin styrene sheet. On Chevalier, that platform was surrounded by vertical (rather than angular) rails. But they will be added later.

I think that’s all we need in order to figure out what the non-skid decals should look like. So, it’s time to start with them. I’ll begin aft (expecting little change there) and move forward. I’ll briefly comment on each:

• Decal #30 is too large and complex. I cut it in half and dealt with the aft 40mm tub and the 20mm tub as separate decals. The fit inside the tubs is not that great. It never is. I guess that’s part of the reason why Micro Sol was invented.
• Decal #29 fits well with no changes
• Decal #28 is ridiculously large and complex. I cut it into 4 parts (inside 40mm tub, aft of 40 mm tub, inside the aft steering station and port of the 40mm tub). The first 3 fit well and require no changes. The third is obviously designed to wrap around some gear locker that did not exist on Chevalier. So I filled that area with a short bit of spare decal.
• Decal #27 contains strips that surround the 5” practice loaders on Gearing. Those were located farther forward on Chevalier. So, cut them off and this decal works fine.
• Decal #26 has some troubles. First, it has no cutout for its passage by the manhole port and aft of the aft stack. Second, it has a portside tab that hangs over the edge of the deck that must be removed. Last, for Chevalier, the 5” practice loader strips must be removed. Otherwise it fits fine.
• Extra – I’ll add 3 strips forward to outline the 5” practice loaders, a cross deck strip just in front of the aft stack to provide access to the mainmast ladder, a small tab strip starboard amid to provide access to the searchlight platform ladder and a “T” shaped strip behind the aft stack to provide cross-deck access and access to the forward MK51 platform.
• Decal #24 is too large and complicated. I cut it into 3 sections (forward, port 20mm tub and starboard 20mm tub). I also removed the aft going strips from each tub part since the deck lockers in this area are different for Chevalier. I’ll relocate those strips inboard going straight back to the tops of the main deck to O1 deck inclined ladders (to be added later) and add a second strip of extra decal on each side to make them double width. This should provide non-skid around all lockers, around the starboard vent ducts and provide some flexibility in the location of the inclined ladders. There is a problem with the forward section. It almost exactly fits the shape of the forward deck. In fact it even looks as if it very slightly hangs over the edges of the deck. In other words, it’s too big. I had to remove (MicroSol does the job) a section of it and replace it with a strip of extra decal cut to the correct length. But now you know better. I would suggest cutting the decal right down the middle (both directions) and locating it inboard just a bit. I also added a short strip of extra decal in place of the cutout for the port forward 20mm ammo locker; which did not exist on Chevalier.
• Decal #2 is intended to outline the danger area around the 5” practice loaders and for Chevalier it needs to be relocated forward.

Now I’ll add the other small detail parts to the O1 level. During this step I’ll keep the two stack base parts in place (dry fitted) on the deck to make sure that the stacks will fit okay later:

• The GMM PE set 40mm ammo racks inside the 3 aft tubs. This is a GREAT feature that should be used much more often. They should probably be painted the deck color or black or dark gray if at GQ and stacked with 40mm cartridges. But, I chose Haze Gray so that these fine detail parts could be seen. I trimmed the racks for the forward tub to conform more to Chevalier’s design and so as not to block the scuttle in the corner.
• Earlier I incorrectly removed the mounting slot for a part H22, which in the Chevalier plans is indicated as a “ready ammo rack”. In fact, I now believe that the kit’s part H22 is intended to be a “ready ammo rack”. I’ll file off the mounting tab and add it just forward and port of the #3 40mm tub.
• The plans indicate two 55 gallon drums stowed just aft and on the shield of the #3 40mm tub. I’ll make these from 1/16” styrene rod.
• The plans show a small “gun gear locker” just aft of the #2 40mm tub opening. I’ll cut a part H30 just about in half and add it there.
• Add two part H30s (20mm ready ammo lockers) in-line (Chevalier’s configuration) near the starboard aft 20 tub.
• Add kit part A16 (electrical equipment board) in the slot provided aft of the steering station.
• Add kit part H28 (after steering station) inside its shield. I have no idea how many of these I’ve scratch built in the past but this is an awesome detailed part.
• Add an H30 locker (in this case a “gear locker”) just port and centered with the aft stack base.
• Add kit part A18 (antenna trunk) in its mounting hole just starboard of the aft stack.
• Add scratch built helmet racks (styrene rod) in the 40 and 20 tubs
• Add two parts H17 (lockers) as indicated in the instructions just aft of the forward stack
• Add the 5” practice loaders pointing forward (for Chevalier) inside the white warning outline decal and inside the non-skid strips added earlier. I’ll add a little brass wire (unpainted) to enhance these just a bit.
• Two barrel cooling tubes inside the 20 tub. I don’t really know where these were located. No plans or photos show them. So they must have been relatively hidden inside the tub shields.
• Add the three MK51 platforms and ladders. The shortest platform goes aft with its ladder forward. The other two locate as indicated in the instructions with ladders inboard.
• The searchlight platform with its 2 bar vertical railings. Note that this is not the design of Gearing. The “nest” type searchlight platform rails included in the GMM PE set are incorrect for Chevalier. I had to go to a generic GMM railing PE set to get these. The vertical ladder to this platform is centered starboard.
• Two 5” practice loader gear lockers (I used two extra parts H30) adjacent to the searchlight platform. These are a change for Chevalier. One is located forward of the searchlight platform and one is port. Both “nest” between the searchlight platform legs.
• Add one fairly tall scratch built machine vent amidships. This is located in the center area below the new tripod mainmast and is a Chevalier modification.
• The four forward 20mm ammo lockers (parts H30) (see photos for locations) that were located differently for Chevalier, and one “pyro locker” (the unused part H26) port.
• Add two eyebolts and turnbuckles (GMM PE), or whatever you choose to use, outboard of the aft stacks as attachment points for the foremast stays.
• I’ve recently discovered that the aft port 20mm platform (adjacent to the aft stack) contained only 1 gun rather than the 2 that Gearing had. This also means that the platform was shorter and only extended about halfway around the stack. The forward most of the platform support post mounting holes in the O1 level should be filled with putty and painted over.
• Add the inclined ladders from the main deck to the forward O1 level now while they are still easily accessible. The kit provides PE parts MA31. But they have no railings! Why did they do that? Photos of several Gearings clearly show railings on these, and all other inclined ladders. GMM to the rescue – they are not shown in the GMM PE instructions, but the PE set has replacements for all 6 kit inclined ladders that the ship needs – with railings. I’ll paint their steps Deck Gray. Note that the port and starboard ladders were positioned slightly differently. See the photos in step 13 of this document.
• I will not add part G47 outboard on the starboard 40mm tub since neither the Chevalier plans nor photos show this item.

That’s it for the O1 level at this time. It still needs several vertical ladders from the main deck; which should be coordinated with the O1 deck rails; which can’t be added until after the forward dual 40mm platform is added; which should be added simultaneously with the bridge assembly; which should not be added until after the pilot house is built and fitted to the bridge. Further, it has become obvious that the forward stack addition will be more easily accomplished before the forward 40mm platform is added. So, we’ll take a break from the O1 level for a while.

Forward O1 level

Amid O1 level

Aft O1 level

Aft O1 level from above starboard

Amid O1 level from above port

5” practice loader and searchlight platform detail

As shown in step 3 of the instructions, combine parts B22, B18 and B27. The H22 ammo racks did not exist on Chevalier, so fill their mounting slots with putty. The instructions only indicate that two are to be added. However, there are 4 mounting slots – fill all 4. Parts G24 and B32 (antenna trunk) will be added later after the deck is painted. Part B3 (another antenna trunk) did not exist on Chevalier (although it did on many other Gearings). I’ll also drill out the 5 drain holes near the top on each side of B22 (note that these were not quite evenly spaced but separated into a set of 3 and another set of 2). I’ll add a vent screen outboard on the most forward port side of B22. And I’ll putty fill and file off all evidence of the aft starboard door that was not on Chevalier.

There is one more task. The GMM instructions clearly state that before the 40mm ammo racks will fit, you must trim off the support brackets from the insides of the tubs. I missed that on the aft O1 level tubs and the racks still fit acceptably well. But, that is not the case for these forward twin tubs. There is no way that the PE ammo racks will fit correctly unless the shield support brackets are removed.

Now the assembly is ready to paint Haze Gray. After that, paint the deck Deck Gray and darken the vent screen with a dark gray wash.

Now add the detail:

• Decal #25 inside the tubs; which fits very poorly. Expecting fit difficulties, I cut it in half down the middle. It still fit badly with decal running up the sides of the shields. I suggest cutting it into three sections (tubs and cross-deck strip). That would help but it still doesn’t fit right inside the tubs. I’m thankful for MicroSol and the 40mm GMM ammo racks that will conceal most of the troubles.
• Add the GMM PE ammo racks inside the tubs.
• Add part B32 (antenna trunk) in its mounting hole. As mentioned before, part B3 does not apply to Chevalier but should be added for many other Gearings.
• I’ll add a couple of helmet racks (styrene rod painted dark gray) to each 40mm tub.
• Part G24 (I have no idea what this is) in test fitting with the bridge, turns out to look too wide to allow the short inclined ladders to fit on each side of it. Additionally, in the plans, part G24 looks like some small wire and post structure that is somewhat narrower. I’ll delay the addition (or scratch building) of this part until after the inclined ladders are added.
• Add the two doors. Both are quick acting. The port aft door hinges forward and the port forward door hinges outboard; which means that they overlap one another and that does not seem sensible. So, I added the forward door opening inboard and – surprise, the stack and 40mm platform no longer fit on the deck at the same time. The spacing here is that tight. The thickness of flush fit door is enough to prevent things from fitting. Further, if the inboard door is hinged outboard (as the plans suggest), there is just no way that the inclined ladder that goes in this space is going to fit. So I added the inboard door closed and things do fit with very little space to spare. I expect that the addition of this assembly, the stack and the two inclined ladders will be a VERY tight fit.

This assembly will not be added to the deck until after a few other assemblies are also ready to add. Set it aside for a while.

File off the molded on ladders on each side (parts B33 and B34) that did not exist on Chevalier. During that process, if you are like me, you will probably damage the thin conduits just next to the ladders that go up to the running lights. If so, replace them with bits of wire. I’ll also open the door aft on part B34 by filing off the layer inside of it and I’ll drill out the two portholes forward.

Now go ahead and combine the 4 basic parts of this unit (B33, B34, B19 and B30). As noted earlier, the deck (B23) does not need to be glued in place at this time. But it should be used to assure a correct fit later. This is a very visible part so I’ll spend a little extra effort to file and putty the 4 part joints on this assembly; although they are really pretty good anyway.

The test fit of this assembly with the previous 40mm platform assembly shows just a little difficulty. I had to file off maybe 1/32” from the front edge of the forward stack base and perhaps another 1/32” off the inside of the port forward extension of part B22 (the area with the vent screen outboard). After that, the assemblies fit the deck quite well.

Now I’ll add all other detail that will be painted Haze Gray:

• Part B12 (vent) requires some test fitting with the 40mm tub assembly
• Part B1 (vent) did not exist on Chevalier – too bad it’s a great looking part
• Part B31 (vent)
• Part B13 (vent) but on Chevalier the forward loop was not as long as on Gearing
• A scratch made pipe vent forward of Part B13
• A scratch made box above part B31 aligned with the running light
• A scratch made box forward on the port side aligned with the running light
• Parts K36 (flag bags) aft – test fit with the 40mm tub assembly

Paint the assembly Haze Gray (without the deck in place) and the deck, Deck Gray. Now there are a number of items to be added or painted:

• Paint the deck, Deck Gray and add it to the assembly.
• There are no non-skid decals for this deck.
• Add the one door port. It’s a standard door hinged forward. I’ll add it open.
• Add a dab of Micro Kristal Klear in each port hole.
• Paint the running lights.
• Paint the interiors of the flag bags.
• Add a pinrail (scratch built styrene and a bit of ladder) in front of each flag bag. This provides a location for tying off the halyards later on.
• Add an attachment point for a forward mast stay on each side of the assembly just aft of and slightly above the running lights. My experience is that these things never work here unless they are extended some distance form the bulkheads and also that any simple attachment invariably rips right off when tension is applied. So, as I usually do, on each side I’ll drill a small hole at the attachment point and firmly glue a short bit of styrene rod into those holes.
• Paint the tips of the fighting lights aft on the wings (top to bottom - red, green, white).
• The plans for Chevalier (May 1945) and photos from summer 1945 show a small and unusual whip antenna dead center forward on the outside of the bridge wing. No other Gearings that I have seen have this item and by 1946 it was removed from Chevalier. Nevertheless, it seems to have existed on the “modeled for” date. So I’ll scratch build and add this antenna from styrene and PE sprue.
• Part K29 (one each side) did not seem to exist at that location on Chevalier. Several photos have been searched. So, skip them for now.

I’ll build the pilot house and be sure that it works well with the bridge before moving on. Set the bridge assembly aside for a while.

In accordance with my general rule that nothing is added until all parts that fit to it are built and at least test dry fitted, I’ll now move on to the pilot house assembly.

As shown (rather poorly) in the inset diagram in step 2 of the instructions, prepare parts B25 (forward), B26 (aft), B28, B17, B16, B21 and B29 (the deck). It sounds like I’m building some strange bomber. Drill out all the portholes and, since I’m not at GQ, I’ll open all the doors. What happened to that great idea back on the deck house bulkheads of molding all the doors open? They can always be closed. Caution, some of these parts can be easily broken. Be careful.

I’ll also file off the molded on ladder on part B28 and, for Chevalier, file off the small locker, or whatever it is just aft of that, since Chevalier’s vertical ladder was located there.

Now assemble all those small parts. They are going to need some horizontal surface to which they can align. Since the bridge deck is already painted and these parts are not, I’ll glue them to the pilot house lid (part B29). And, I’ll frequently test fit with the bridge deck - particularly so for the parts adjacent to the unusual companionway that the Gearings had.

That worked out well enough. I will do a little filing and putty cleanup on some of the bulkhead joints and I’ll cut and file off the small deck overhang aft on the port side which will conflict with Chevalier’s vertical ladder. Otherwise this assembly looks very nice and I see nothing on the plans for Chevalier that should be added to the already very well outfitted bulkheads.

So, now paint the assembly Haze Gray and the deck, Deck Gray.

Now let’s add other details that physically attach to the pilot house. Obviously, there are MANY details on the bridge wings and some apply to Chevalier and some don’t. But, that will come later. For now, just do those items that are actually attached to the pilot house:

• Add a dab of Micro Kristal Klear in each porthole.
• Add the doors – starboard aft to front (standard closed, standard open, quick acting open) – port aft to front (standard open, quick acting open).
• Add the non skid decal #31 on the pilot house top deck. Note that for Chevalier the deck was slightly modified and the vertical ladder was relocated. That requires some modification to this decal.
• Drill 6 holes (3 per side outboard and far aft) and add a PE eyebolt in each. These will be used later as stay and antenna attachment points.
• Add part G25 (range light) forward as shown in the instructions.
• Add piperail (1 bar low railing) around the forward edges of the deck
• Add a vertical ladder in the notch on the port side.
• Check to make sure that part B4 (the Mk37 base) fits nicely in its mounting hole on the deck. It does seem to fit well.

That should be it for now. There are still a lot of parts to be added to the bridge wings (after the pilot house is added). But first, let’s build the stacks, add them and get the O1 level finished up. Set the pilot house assembly aside for a little while.

I have a couple of complaints here. It’s really nice that the stack bodies (parts B5 and B6) are single piece tubes. But, the sprue connection points are the worst possible – right in the middle of the sides. Put them on the top and bottom or on the back under the pipe that will be added there or in front under the ladder or just about anywhere other than where they are. Further, it’s virtually impossible to clean up the connection points without damaging the molded on conduits on the sides; which I will now have to fully remove and replace with wire anyway. Generally, this kit has shown a huge improvement in sprue connections over the previous Gleaves class kits. Keep up the good work and try next time to improve the stacks.

Next, parts B9 and B10 were a total mystery to me for some time. The instructions are totally vague. It can take a while to realize that they are intended to be baffles inside the stacks. But, since both they and the stack insides should be painted flat black, I somewhat fail to see their value. Now if they (or the stack cap parts) provided grills on the tops, then I see some real value. But otherwise, all they really seem to do is to complicate the painting and assembly sequence in return for a part that is essentially invisible. Don’t misunderstand me. I am obviously very much in favor of any part that adds accuracy or detail. And, some reduced variation of these parts could be good. But invisible parts that add complication are really not that welcome.

The stack bases (parts B14 and B15) will be separately painted and added after all other parts are painted and assembled. The edges and tops of these parts should be painted Haze Gray and I’ll paint the inside base of the stacks flat black (why not).

I’ll explain the two stacks separately

The Aft Stack

• Paint part B10 and the insides of the stack flat black.
• For Chevalier part B2 (searchlight platform) and the searchlight will not be used at this location. So fill its two mounting holes (low forward) with putty.
• Add a part G29 (screen vent) on its 4 mounting pins on each side. The slightly curving vent should be aft.
• Add the stack cap (part B7) and paint the insides flat black.
• Replace the conduit above the vent that was damaged during sprue connection cleanup with a bit of stiff wire.
• Add part G41 (pipe) aft, aligned with the 3 mounting holes; although the part does not actually have pins that fit the holes. Be very careful cleaning up this part. They break easily.
• Add part MA23 (there is no GMM replacement) over the aft pipe (part G41) and part G22 above that. I have no idea what this thing is and the instructions don’t really help much. See the photos herein. Part MA23 is a mounting bracket with support legs. Bend it as indicated by the bending marks on the part. Part G22 is the part that the bracket supports and it goes just above those angular brackets. The entire assembly mounts a bit higher than the instructions indicate – just below the aft stack pipe (G41) outlet.
• For Chevalier there are some troubles with the ladders. Both (forward and aft stack) ladders were located about 45 degrees to port of center forward. The kit provides part MA26 for the aft stack. It’s a nice part but unfortunately it’s designed to start at the searchlight platform, which is not on Chevalier, and is therefore much too short for this build. Part MA19 is designed for the forward stack and, after removal of only 2 rungs it fits very well on the aft stack. Part MA26 will not be used.
• Add the GMM low 1 bar foot rail around the stack cap.
• Add the GMM cap handrail.
• Add an additional short piece of ladder extended upward to the handrail.
• Add the GMM standard type antenna brackets one to each side. They are superior to the kit’s parts MA12 and MA13.
• Instead of adding kit parts G37 and G34 (whip antennas) I’ll add a short bit of styrene rod as an insulator and a piece of steel wire as the antennas. This will be much stronger, straighter, cleaner and less likely to get damaged.

The Forward Stack

• Paint part B9 and the insides of the stack flat black.
• Add a part G28 (screen vent) on its 4 mounting pins on each side. The slightly curving vent should be aft.
• Add the stack cap (part B8) and paint the insides flat black.
• Replace the conduit above the vent that was damaged during sprue connection cleanup with a bit of stiff wire.
• Add part G40 (pipe) aft, aligned with the 3 mounting holes; although the part does not actually have pins that fit the holes.
• As mentioned above, I chose to use part MA19 (the kit’s forward stack ladder) with some slight modification, on the aft stack. That was because the kit’s MAxx ladder parts are actually superior to any generic ladders from other sources and the aft stack ladder is considerably more visible. For the forward stack I’ll use a wide ladder from a generic GMM ladder PE set. Be sure to test fit the stack and ladder with the forward dual 40mm platform in place. It’s a very tight fit with the ladder. It should be located about 45 degrees to port of center forward.
• Follow the GMM PE instructions and add the whistle platform (part D).
• Now add a couple of bits of thick wire (pipes) from the location of the maintenance platform up to the whistle platform.
• Add the GMM maintenance platform (parts A, B and C).
• Add the GMM low 1 bar foot rail around the stack cap.
• Add the GMM cap handrail
• Add part MA4 from the kit. This is a bit hard to get bent right. The kit’s instructions don’t help much. Check the photos.
• Add scratch built (styrene rod) ship’s horn, siren and whistle to the whistle platform.

Note that Chevalier had no ECM antennas mounted on the stacks. They were on the tripod mainmast instead. Also, Chevalier did not have part MA29 and G16 on the aft stack.

Now airbrush the stacks Haze Gray. Then, put a dab of flat black inside the aft pipe outlets on both stacks, add a dab of flat black on the front of the horns on the forward stack and paint the intake vents on each side with a dark gray wash. Also, add a bit of paint to the insulators for the whip antennas on the aft stack. I used dark gray although a medium blue was also common.

Then insert the baffles. Take the time to figure out front from back! The baffles can be forced to fit backwards. The mounting holes for the baffles on the stack bases and the mounting holes on the deck for the stack bases will describe fore and aft correctly. But get it right! Further, the baffles were a tight fit before they were painted. Now, they are too tight. So, file just bit off all the contact surfaces until you get a nice fit. Push them in all the way and then add the bases.

And last, add the stack gap grills. I used the GMM version instead of the kit’s parts MA18. I don’t really know why – they appear to be identical. They should be slightly bent into an arch. “Slightly” is the key word here. Obviously they should be painted flat black.

So now the stacks are done. We’ll be adding the forward stack in the next step. But, set the aft stack aside for a while until after the modifications to or scratch build of the aft port 20mm platform.

Now we’ll finally put a bunch of stuff together.

First are the forward stack and the dual 40mm platform. The stack has a very tight and difficult fit if installed after the 40mm tub. So, I have been intending to add the stack first. The problem with that is that there is just no possible way (or at the least it will be very difficult) to add the two inclined ladders from the O1 deck up to the 40mm platform deck after the stack is added. So, the sequence will have to be 1) 40mm platform with bridge assembly dry fitted in front of it, 2) inclined ladders and 3) forward stack.

When adding the dual 40mm platform (with the bridge dry fitted) push both assemblies as far forward as possible. You will need the extra space even if it’s very small. Then add the ladders. I chose the GMM ladders with railings. Position them as far outboard as possible. Then I added the stack, with considerable complex maneuvering into a correct position. It took several minutes to get it to fit right and I’m glad that I chose to use a dab of plastic glue placed on the O1 deck in the center of the stack base area in such a way that it would not be contacted until the stack could be located correctly and pushed down into place.

This entire process is simply not designed vary well. It can be made to fit, as I did. But, it’s much too tight a fit and the ladders end up angling a bit outboard at their bottoms. If I had it to do over again I would file about 1/64” off the inboard edges of the 40mm tubs (next to the ladder tops) and about 1/64” off the forward outboard edges of the stack base. It would still be a tight fit. But at least the ladders could be straight.

Now I’ll add a short bit of 2-bar railing on the 40mm tub level between the tops of the two inclined ladders. And as long as I’m doing little bits of railing, and while it’s still easy to access, I’ll add some 3-bar railings on the aft end of the forward O1 level that connect to the main deck to O1 level ladders. Note that the port and starboard ladders are located slightly differently. Then, as indicated in the Chevalier plans, I’ll add two 20mm barrel cooling tubes (bits of styrene rod) on each side, outside the aft ends of the railings just added.

O1 level to dual 40mm platform inclined ladders

40mm platform ladder tops and railing

Starboard Main deck to O1 level inclined ladder, railing and 20mm cooling tubes

Port Main deck to O1 level inclined ladder, railing and 20mm cooling tubes

The addition of the aft stack will be postponed until the aft port 20mm tub (Chevalier version) is built. Set the aft stack aside for now.

It’s now time to combine the bridge and pilot house assemblies and add the detail to the bridge wings. The detail is a bit different for Chevalier since she carried no torpedo tubes and thus needed no torpedo director (part E9). Chevalier also had some equipment located differently.

Add from fore to aft starboard:

• Part G15 (captains char)
• Part K22/21 (12” signal light) – Note: I chose to delay the addition of these very fragile parts until after the assembly was added to the model.
• Part K2 (pelorus)
• Part G19 (depth charge release)
• Assembly B (sky lookout station). As always part MA38 broke while bending and I replaced it with a bit of PE sprue. I also added resin binoculars from a l’Arsenal sky lookout station PE set.
• Assembly E (Mk51 director) parts E3 and E5.
• Part K22/21 (12” signal light) – Note: Again, I chose to delay the addition of these.

The port side is identical except it has no part G15 or G19.

The addition of the bridge assembly to the rest of the ship involves another very tight fit aft. The key is part G24; the addition of which to the forward 40mm tub assembly was delayed back in step 9 of this document for this very suspected reason. As it turns out that was a good idea. The location of part G24 is critical for two reasons. First, there is a very tight fit between the flag bags for both it and for two inclined ladders. Second, its fore-aft location determines the space available for the foremast mounting. And, that fit must be just right in order to have room for the mast and also get a snug and secure fit.

As far as the mast is concerned, I intend to replace it with brass rod; which is much stronger and doesn’t bend and warp when tight stays and halyards are attached. Further, unlike the kit’s plastic tapered mast, the Chevalier plans indicated a “staircase” mast with three different widths. So, I have some flexibility in terms of the chosen dimension for the lowest mast section and getting its mounting space exact is less critical. And there are always files and drills available.

But, test fitting of part G24 and two GMM short inclined ladders between the flag bags does not work. The space is just too narrow! But the width of the small platforms to which the ladders attach and the width of the ladders is identical. So, the platforms can’t be narrowed. The plans show considerably more space in this area. Enough space in fact to require some short railing sections around the ladder platforms. Something is slightly off in the design dimensions in this area.

However, it’s possible to just get the required space by filing the sides of part G24 until they are not much more than paper thick. At that point part G24 will fit inside the notch (between the ladder platforms) on the aft center of the bridge deck; which may be the intended location anyway. However, it must not fit all the way inside the notch or there won’t be room for the mast. The plans show no notch in this area – only the mast and some boxy structure (part G24 I assume) immediately aft of the mast.

After filing part G24, at least it and the ladders will fit. But getting it put together is still easier said than done. It looks like adding the ladders last will be quite an access and alignment challenge. Adding part G24 last looks even worse. I’ll try this:

• Dry fit the bridge assembly and hold it in place while gluing part G24 just barely inside the cutout on the bridge deck (into which it now fits after filing) and pushing it down to sit squarely on the 40mm tub. But, do not glue it to the 40mm platform yet.
• Remove the dry fitted bridge and the now combined G24 assembly and glue the inclined ladders on each side of G24 with their bottoms aligned with the bottom of G24 (which should be the 40mm deck).
• Add the entire assembly to the model and glue it in place not only along its forward edges but also at the points of the bottom of G24 and the inclined ladders.

The result produced is just a tiny bit tight for the kit’s plastic mast. But I don’t intend to use it anyway. Further, as mentioned, that’s one of the reasons that we have files and miniature drill bits.

Now add the four 12” signal lights that were postponed earlier. Caution, the model is now officially FRAGILE.

In addition to the MK37 and radar (which will be added later), there is one more item to be added to the pilot house deck. It’s described in the Chevalier plans as a “plot board” and is shown only as a rectangular shape in both top down and side views. Nevertheless, photos of various Gearings show a fairly complex multi-rectangular instrument here which I will attempt to reproduce from styrene pieces. I have no idea what it really was or what it looked like in detail.

Bridge & pilot house – starboard view

Bridge & pilot house – port view

Bridge & pilot house – aft ladders

I’m pretty well convinced that the aft O1 level railings should be added before this assembly. But, what we have here is a mostly scratch built item that was quite different on Chevalier and it makes sense to build it before the final decision regarding the sequence of railing addition. It also needs to be built and have a confirmed fit and placement scheme before the aft stack is added.

Chevalier’s 20mm platform contained only one dual 20mm gun (instead of the two that Gearing carried). The tub was pretty much the same aft but shortened quite a bit forward with a slightly different shape. I’ll chose to scratch build it from styrene and brass sheet, although cutting the kit’s platform roughly in half and replacing the forward shield would produce a passable Chevalier platform.

After the basic shape was built (styrene platform with brass shields) I added shield support braces inside, platform support braces under it (located in accordance with the kit part so as not to interfere with the support posts locations), a small box of some sort aft inboard (in the same place it exists on the kit part), kit part G44 (barrel cooling tubes) where indicated in the kit’s instructions and some 1 bar railing outboard of the gun position. Note that for Chevalier, only the single set of barrel cooling tubes (part G44) existed.

Now paint it all Haze Gray and paint the deck, Deck Gray.

Add a part H30 ready ammo locker forward inside the tub. Last, cut the non-skid decal #32 to fit the new tub as best you can and add it.

I drilled no mounting holes for the support posts. There is just no way they could possibly end up being exactly above the mounting holes on the main deck. My plan is to add the support posts (shortened just a touch) to the main deck and then just sit the platform on top of them.

From test fitting it appears that the best assembly sequence will be 1) add the aft stack (we already know that the 20mm platform fits well to it), 2) add the O1 deck railings and vertical ladders from the main deck, 3) add the 20mm platform support posts and 4) add the 20mm platform.

I’ll add the stack as before, with a bit of plastic glue centered between the alignment posts while I jockey it into position to sit correctly and touch that glue.

I’ve done a quick test fit on the 20mm platform support posts and am more convinced than ever that its best to add the O1 deck rails (at least in this area) before the platform is added. Further, the posts fit just slightly inside the rails and should cause no troubles.

So, now it’s finally time to add the O1 deck rails and the vertical ladders coming up from the main deck. I’ll briefly mention each GMM rail segment in the order that I added them:

• The #12 rail starboard forward with a vertical ladder at its forward end. If you pre-added the mast stay, as I did, be sure to lift it out of the way.
• The #13 rail starboard amid with a vertical ladder at its forward end.
• The #14 rail port forward/amid being sure not to obscure the mounting holes for the 20mm platform posts. And, as before, relocate the pre-added stay above the rail. This PE is designed for only one vertical ladder forward. But, Chevalier had three in this area. In addition to the forward ladder, she had one far aft just forward of the 40mm tub and another amid just aft of the first cable reel aft of the cross deck passageway. Add extra stanchions (bits of extra rail) to provide openings for these two extra ladders.
• The #11 rail forward doesn’t fit quite as well as the others. Add a vertical ladder aft on each side.
• The #15 rail aft with a vertical ladder on each side more or less in the middle.
• For Chevalier, one more long vertical ladder starboard just forward of the forward dual 40mm platform extending to the top of the vent.

I won’t be using the kit supplied support posts (parts G35, G38 and G45) or the cross brace (part MA15). The primary reason is that it’s much easier just to cut new posts from .020” styrene rod than it is to remove the parts from the sprues and clean them up. The second reason is that due to the reduced size of the platform on Chevalier, the forward post, and thus also the part MA15 cross brace, did not exist on Chevalier. The deck mounting hole for that absent forward post should have already been filled way back in step 8 of this document. It is odd that Chevalier, a more sophisticated and more capable ship than Gearing, continues to have fewer details and a cleaner and less crowded design. I suppose that’s just good shipbuilding.

So now add the four support posts - .020” rod cut to a length of exactly 7/32” – or the kit’s parts if you prefer. Make sure each is straight. Then put some glue on top of each post and a little bit on the joint where the platform touches the stack and carefully add it – properly aligned level and straight fore and aft.

NOTE: Far later in step 27 of this document I had some troubles with the 20mm platform breaking loose and had to remove and replace it. See step 27 for an explanation. During that process I discovered that the plans for Chevalier showed an additional fifth support post in the aft inboard corner of the platform, near the ladder. That fifth post was NOT included in the kit. It may have just been a difference between Chevalier and Gearing. Nevertheless, for Chevalier, (and possibly Gearing and other sisters) you will want to add that extra post, which is not included in the kit’s design, at this time. It would also be advisable to drill a mounting hole for the platform’s 20mm gun now rather than later.

There is only one thing left to do – add a vertical ladder aft of the platform.

Starboard rails and ladders forward

Starboard rails and ladders amidships

Starboard rails and ladders aft

Port rails and ladders aft

Port rails and ladders amidships

Port rails and ladders forward

Port aft 20mm platform and aft stack

Port aft 20mm platform and aft stack

So why, considering all the effort I’ve made to avoid easily breakable items, would I choose to do the very fragile foremast now? It’s because the rigging is much more easily accomplished before all those barrels and davits exist, in which rigging can get tangled. There really isn’t that much left to be done – the foremast, the mainmast, the K-guns and depth charge racks, the whale boat and the various guns. All of those items act as traps and tangle points for the rigging. So, before they are added, I’ll get both masts and all the rigging added and secured.

As mentioned, I won’t be using the kit’s bendable plastic mast, but will replace it with brass rod – in three joined segments of different diameter. I reduced the 1/96 Chevalier plans to 1/350 scale and worked from that. But you could use the kit’s plastic mast as a dimension guide just as well. Or, here are some dimensions:

• Bottom (widest) segment - 24/32” long
• Middle (mid width) segment – 23/32” long
• Top (thinnest) segment – 13/32” long

So the total mast length should be 1 28/32”. This may visually appear a bit short, but that dimension does not include the height of the SR radar and its support base.

Be aware that the equipment and various stuff on Chevalier’s mast was quite different than Gearing’s. Almost all of this assembly will be scratch built. I’ll identify the various components as I go. I’ll also attempt considerable detail. Not only because the masts are very visible features on any model but also because all these antennas and radars is what Chevalier (or any DDR) was all about.

Before anything else I’ll add the yardarms. It may seem early to do this but it serves to establish port from starboard and fore from aft very early and thus will prevent later confusion and potential mistakes. But I will need to be careful handling the assembly from now on. I’ll use the GMM PE yardarms and “doublers” that add strength to it. There are also a couple of changes for Chevalier.

• Cut off the tall antenna support post that is unique to one side. That’s the post for the TBS (“talk between ships”) antenna. On Chevalier it was located on a platform. The shorter posts near the yard ends are for the BK and BU antennas and should remain where they are. The actual circular antennas (due to their fragility) will be added later.
• Add a small bit of very thin rod at the end of each yard to represent the yardarm lights.
• Add a segment of 1 bar railing at the end of each yard, pointing forward. These are the radio antenna outriggers.

Now add the yardarm to the aft edge of the mast just above the upper mast joint and 11/32” below the top of the mast. The location of the yardarm radio antenna outriggers now defines forward and the yardarm is on the aft edge of the mast. At this point I usually add a couple of angular support braces or some stays to keep the yardarm level. In fact, based on photos, stays did exist that attached to the area of the radar maintenance platform near the very top of the mast. I won’t add those just yet, but will add one extra bit of rod horizontally just above the yardarm to add just a bit more stability for the time being.

Most of the detail on the foremast was mounted on small platforms extending forward from the mast. The ladder was also on the forward side of the mast. So, I’ll have to add that first so that the platforms can be cut to pass around the sides of the ladder. Before adding the ladder I’ll double check its length by test fitting the mast in its mounting hole in order to be sure the ladder will not conflict with the mast mounting. I’ll also add a bit of brass wire on the aft side of the mast to represent a conduit – again checking its bottom to be sure it does not cause troubles with the mast mounting. Please note that the scratch cutting of some of the platforms so that they attach to the mast but surround and allow the use of the wider ladder is quite challenging. Take your time. It may take several attempts before you get something that works.

Now, I’ll add the various platforms and devices from bottom to top:

• The ship’s bell hanging from a small platform located 45 degrees to port low on the mast about 13/32” above the mast bottom. The bell can be made by carefully filing a bit of styrene rod. No bell is included in the kit, as far as I can tell, but should be for a kit this detailed. Check its vertical location carefully to be sure that it does not interfere with the installation of the mast. I’ll eventually be painting the bell Brass.
• The masthead light on a small scratch built platform 29/32” below the mast top with 2 small support braces underneath and the light (some styrene bits) on the platform.
• The DBM antenna platform (scratch built) 24/32” below the mast top with 2 support braces underneath and a dome DBM antenna enclosure (filed and rounded styrene rod).
• A set of fighting lights on each side of the mast between the masthead and DBM antenna platforms. I’ll use kit parts G30 and G31.
• A small platform extending starboard just above the DBM platform with a brace underneath that serves as the connection point for the lower end on the upper Jacob’s ladder.
• The TBS antenna platform (scratch built) 17/32” below the mast top (just below the top mast joint) with 2 support braces above. In this case the antenna actually extended through and slightly below the platform (so drill a small hole). But I will not yet add the TBS since it always gets bent – usually several times. I swear that even if I added it as the very last thing on a model, it would still get bent! Perhaps I should paint it orange or something to catch my attention, until EVERYTHING else was done, and then repaint it Haze Gray.
• I’ll move slightly out of sequence for a moment and build and add the SG radar platform 6/32” below the mast top, with a lateral brace beneath. I’ll use kit parts E8 and E6 for the actual radar. I mounted all previous platforms square to the mast – which is technically wrong (I’m inclined to go back and rip them all off – but I won’t). The mast actually angles slightly aft and the platforms should be located on the horizontal – thus angling slightly downward as compared to the mast. But honestly, getting the angle correct without the mast being installed first is one heck of a challenge.
• There was a small platform just below the SG platform (probably for maintenance) with a single support brace beneath it.
• For the upper fighting lights I added kit parts G32 and G33 just aside the SG platform. Be sure that a ladder will fit squarely between the Jacob’s ladder platform added earlier and the starboard upper fighting light.
• The TDQ & TBK antenna support yardarm (.020 brass rod 13/32” long) located on the forward edge of the mast just below the SG maintenance platform with two support braces underneath it. The actual TDQ and TBK antennas qualify as very fragile and will be added later.
• The Jacob’s ladder from the previously added platform to the top of the starboard upper fighting light on the aft side of the mast, being careful to not obscure any of the main yardarm halyard holes.
• A small ladder forward from the SG platform to the mast top.
• The air search radar maintenance platform on the mast top made from Scale Scenic Brass Micro-Mesh decking outlined with .010” x .020” plastic strip, cut to a shape of 135 degrees of a circle with lateral and angular support brackets beneath. Add this angling slightly downward (like the SG radar platform) so that it will be horizontal after the mast is installed. See photos.
• The gaff (ensign halyard staff) and support structure made from .020 brass rod. 1) The horizontal top brace 10/32” long mounted straight aft under the SR maintenance platform. 2) the gaff itself 15/32” long with a PE eyebolt glued to its end extending from the aft edge of the mast behind the SG radar platform and attaching to the horizontal brace. 3) An angular brace 7/32” long extending from the aft edge of the SR maintenance platform to the gaff.
• The yardarm stays extending from the just below the SR maintenance platform to the yardarms slightly inboard of the BK and BU antennas.
• An SR radar on top of the maintenance platform installed such that it is horizontal after the addition of the mast. In the summer of 1945, Chevalier carried an SR radar atop her foremast. With foresight, GMM has included an SR in its PE set. Although its PE detail is excellent for the radar itself, it obviously does not include the rather complex 3d equipment and support structure which I will make from 1/16” rod and bits of various styrene shapes. The GMM rear frame designed for the SC-4 radar, with just a tiny bit of trimming, works fine as a rear frame for the SR. Don’t forget to add 4 GMM dipoles to the front of the SR antenna.
• For a finishing touch add a waveguide (a semi-circular bit of PE sprue) extending from the SR radar base to just below the maintenance platform.

Now its time to add the delayed “fragile” items.

• The BK and BU antennas from the GMM PE set. There was no difference, so use the GMM BKs on both yardarm ends.
• The TDQ and TBK antennas made form bits of PE railing at the ends of their yardarm.
• The GMM TBS antenna on a post made from a bit of railing

Foremast unpainted aft view

Foremast unpainted forward view

Foremast unpainted starboard view

Foremast unpainted starboard-forward view

Now spray paint the entire assembly Haze Gray and detail paint the fighting lights (red, green, white – top to bottom) and paint the bell brass.

The foremast is now done

This is an entirely scratch built item. The kit includes nothing to help with this process. Perhaps some day Dragon will manufacture a Gearing DDR kit. But not yet. The mast is a tripod arrangement with the aft post (length 1 12/32”) and two side posts (length 1 15/32”) angling out 8/32” and forward 14/32”. A triangular “lower” platform fits inside the tripod 28/32” above the deck. Another “upper” platform and various other gear sits atop the tripod. An assortment of braces exists throughout the structure.

For the tripod I’ll use 1/16” brass rod for the aft post and 3/64” styrene rod (so the ends can be easily cut at an angle) for the forward angular posts. Glue those three together at their tops using a bottom template that marks the correct relative locations of the post bottoms (hint: the footprint is a triangle ½” wide at its base and 7/16” high). Now cut some sheet styrene into an almost (but not quite) equilateral triangle that fits nicely inside the mast tripod 28/32” above its base and firmly establishes the correct angles on the forward legs.

There are several more things to be added:

• On each of the three sides add one cross brace (.025 styrene rod cut to 8/32” length) 17/32” up from the tripod base.
• On each of the three sides add “X” braces (.010 x .020 styrene cut to fit) above and below the cross braces.
• Add some horizontal support braces under the lower platform.
• Add four support rods (.025 styrene rod) in a sort of thin “W” shape under the forward edge of the lower platform (see photos for location) and a couple of side braces on those on each side.
• A foremast stay was attached to the center front edge of the lower platform – so add an eyebolt there.
• Add the access ladder on the starboard side of the aft post from bottom to top.
• Add a bit of wire aft of the aft post to represent a conduit.
• Add another conduit down the port side of the aft post that connects to a square rod near the bottom (probably a wave guide) that angles outward and then down to the deck.
• Add a cleat (some railing PE bent accordingly) on the aft edge of the aft post at shoulder height as a lower attachment point for the ensign halyard which normally flew from this assembly.

Now let’s do the upper platform. It’s a teardrop shape with the pointy end forward. I’ll use mesh decking outlined with .010 styrene strip. We’ll also need a ladder access hole about 3/32” forward of the mast. This is not for the ladder on the aft post which I really don’t see as being usable for upper platform access anyway (its top is fully blocked by the radar that will sit there). Instead, there was another ladder 3/32” forward from the aft post extending between the lower and upper platforms. The hole is for it and I’ll outline it with .010 strip styrene. I’ll also add several horizontal support braces on the bottom of the platform. And finally, since the mesh deck will attach only weakly to the tripod top, I’ll add a small triangular bit of styrene at that attachment point underneath the platform. There are a few more things to be done to the platform before it is added:

• Add an eyebolt centered aft for the ensign halyard.
• Add a very small platform (styrene) centered forward that will support some small unidentified antenna (RDF perhaps).
• Add 2 bar railing all round the platform.

The upper platform is now complete so it’s time to add it to the top of the tripod. Surprisingly, neither the plans nor photos show any angular support braces under it, so do the best that you can to get it mounted horizontally. Then:

• Add the forward ladder from the lower platform to the hole in the upper platform.
• Add a short bit of 2-bar railing bent to 90 degrees just forward of the ladder bottom on the lower platform

There is one other significant structural assembly to add – the yardarm. Yes, there was another yardarm on the mainmast. Luckily, it did not support flag halyards, only antennas. If you have an old spare GMM PE yardarm somewhere, you should use it (minus the halyard holes). Unfortunately, I don’t, so I’ll scratch build it.

The yard itself will be .020 brass rod exactly one inch long positioned under the upper platform just forward of the tripod top. I will add to it:

• A support bracket (cut from PE sprue) on each side extending from mid-yard back and down to the aft post.
• A support bracket (cut from PE sprue) on each side extending from mid-yard back and up to the edge of the upper platform.
• Railing trimmed to represent yardarm foot rails on each side
• Railing trimmed to represent yardarm hand rails on each side

The only items remaining are the various radars and antennas – and those, more than anything else were the purpose of a DDR. So, I’ll try to get them right:

• Add a DBM antenna dome (filed styrene rod) on the forward port corner of the lower platform.
• Add a TDY-1 antenna (GMM PE) centered forward on a short post on the lower platform. There is confusion about the type of TDY that existed on Chevalier. The plans clearly indicate a TDY (first version) whereas the TDY-1 was actually the second version. In some cases, in order to add confusion, these two versions were referred to as “TDY-1” and “TDY-2”. Photos of Chevalier are inconclusive as to which version she carried. Nevertheless, close up photos of sister ships clearly show TDY-1s (second version). And that just happens to be what is provided in the GMM PE set. So, I’ll use that. I also added the rear screen taken from spares of a more detailed GMM PE set for USS Missouri and a bit of styrene for the base and gear.
• The SP radar is next. As mentioned earlier, there were two version – lets call them earlier and later. Chevalier carried the later version on which the upper and lower parts of the dish were slightly truncated. I just happen to have three spare earlier style SP radars left over from GMM Battleship PE sets. But, to make it be the second version I’ll cut the top off of the PE “ring” part (the bottom of the ring is already adequately truncated) and replace it with a bit of straight PE sprue and add a bit of trimmed up ladder across the top (just to make it look more like the photos). After that, it goes together fairly well with some small trimming on the dish support legs and on the dipoles. But, that only creates the radar screen itself. I’ll also need some scratch building (styrene rod of various sizes and a good deal of filing to make the conical base) to create the support structure for the radar. To attach the radar screen to the base I’ll use a bit of PE radar support structure I found in my leftovers kit. But, you could also use styrene as GMM suggests. CAUTION: I destroyed one of my spare radars before I figured out how to build this. Take your time – it’s not easy.
• Next is the YE antenna. In most PE sets, the YE is represented by something that looks like a small bit of 3 bar railing with 4 stanchions. In photos, however, its clear there was a thin screen between those rods. I have no spare YE – so I’ll scratch build it. I’m going to use a four wide floater net basket from the GMM PE set. I’ll add a bit of PE sprue across the center to give it that extra horizontal bar and then bend the assembly around a rod to get about an 80 degree sector. But, that’s just the antenna. It was mounted on a mast (.035 styrene rod cut 13/32” long). I added an equipment box on the aft bottom of the mast. Then a bit of .020 brass rod (14/32” long) mounted to the aft edge of the mast on small standoffs and extending upward from the equipment box. A bit of railing, appropriately cut and bent made the antenna mounting bracket, which was glued to the top of the brass rod. Last, add a small bit of rung ladder on the forward edge of the mast.
• The plans show a small antenna mounted on the small platform that we added in front of the upper platform. It is claimed in some books that the DDR modifications included the addition/relocation of an RDF (DF) radio direction finder on the mainmast. However, I can find no photos, plans or drawings that show a typical RDF loop antenna anywhere on Chevalier, although it seems certain that she had one somewhere. Only the plans that I have show a small, rather poorly defined, antenna at the location mentioned. I’ll add a spare typical RDF antenna left over from a GMM destroyer PE set. If you don’t have that an RDF is easily made from a tiny loop of fine wire and a small post of some sort.
• Almost done – the last item is the ECM antennas (all available in the GMM PE set) which were mounted on the yardarms. I added a type B ECM antenna to the end of each yardarm and a type A ECM antenna and its support post to the middle of each yardarm.

That’s it! The mainmast is done.

Mainmast unpainted forward view

Mainmast unpainted starboard view

Mainmast unpainted port view

Mainmast unpainted aft view

Mainmast unpainted starboard-forward view

Now paint the entire assembly Haze Gray. Some of you may be inclined to believe that the platforms were painted Deck Gray. If that had been the case I certainly would have painted and built this thing in a very different sequence. But that was not the case as is established by close up photos.

The mainmast had no stays except the one attached to the front of the lower platform, which is actually a foremast stay. However, it did have an Ensign halyard aft (cleat to upper platform aft eyebolt). On that special surrender day in Tokyo Bay, all ships were ordered to fly the Ensign from the highest point on the ship, which in this case would be from the foremast gaff. Some ships flew two Ensigns. The crew wore whites and the rails were manned. I do not intend to do that with this build. Thus I have described the build as “Chevalier making her way to Tokyo Bay”. And in that situation, the Ensign would have flown from its normal location, on the mainmast. So add it and its halyard now, while it’s easy to do.

Before I add either mast, I’ll build and add the searchlight. I have no doubt it will be much easier to access now. Build in accordance with the kit’s instructions for assembly F. The clear plastic lens is a nice idea, but when not in use, in order to reduce ship visibility, the shutters were closed and these things presented a dark gray appearance. So I painted the lens dark gray.

I’ll add the foremast before the mainmast. The foremast needs a good deal of rigging which will be more easily dealt with before the mainmast is in place. The first step will be to attach the stays to the foremast (before it is added while it’s still easy to access). The two main aft side stays have already been attached to the deck outboard of the aft stack. There is nothing to do with them until the mast is installed. But there were several other stays and antennas that can be rigged to the mast at this time. All of these connect to the mast just below the yardarm:

• One stay attaching to the eyebolt on the mainmast lower platform.
• Four antenna wires (two on each side) attaching to the two aft most eyebolts on each side of th pilot house top.
• Two stays (one on each side) attaching to the forward most eyebolts on each side of the pilot house top.
• Two stays (one each side) attaching to the posts on each side of the pilot house.

So, in summary, that’s one stay heading aft from the mast, 2 stays and 2 antennas heading forward and port and 2 stays and 2 antennas heading forward and starboard. The only purpose at this point is to get adequate lengths of rigging firmly attached to the foremast. After the mast is installed, we’ll thread these through the various eyebolts and tension them. If you are having difficulty with all those stays getting all twisted up, 1 inch wood clothes pins (available at the housewife’s craft store) will solve the problem.

Now add the foremast. TEST FIT – several times until you can properly stick it into the hole with your eyes closed. Once you add glue, you will only get one chance. It should be angled slightly aft and the yardarm should be square to the ship and should be in perfect horizontal alignment. Nothing looks worse than a crooked mast. Hint: use those clothes pins that I mentioned to hold the stays out of the way and to provide equal downward tension on each side of the mast while the glue sets.

Attach the Stays
To be certain to retain the correct mast aft angle, I want to add an aft stay first. I could add the two aft side stays. But even better, how about the center stay that attaches to the mainmast. That means that it’s now time to add the mainmast. Actually, it will be more easily added before the side stays and it really doesn’t look like it will complicate the addition of the foremast stays anyway. I’ll just have to watch my fingers and tools very carefully for a while.

Test fit the mainmast well. Once we add glue it will pretty much be stuck where it is. By now you should have verified that it sits nicely on its legs. If not, file to achieve that. The only trick is to get it in the right place and square with the ship. In that regard, the aft mast post should be about 1/16” forward of the aft stack. The forward legs fall where they will – but aligned parallel side to side.

Now add and tension the center stay from the foremast to the eyebolt on the mainmast lower platform. Next, I’ll add the 4 antennas (2 per side) that attach to the aft most eyebolts on the pilot house top. Since they are antennas, I’ll add a short bit of insulator (stripped wire-wrap wire insulation) to each. The last two attachments to the fore most pilot house top eyebolts (1 per side) appear, in the plans, to be stays. And, add the last two forward stays attaching to the posts on the sides of the pilot house.

Before I add the two aft side stays, I’ll attach a bit of rigging to the top of the antenna trunk on the 40mm platform. It will be the “lead-in” attachment point for the antenna wires aft. Now go ahead and attach the ends of those stays that we added to the deck eyebolts alongside the aft stack long ago. They should meet the mast at pretty much the same place as all the other stays.

That’s almost it for the stays. Actually, there are two more that act as side stays on the foremast. They follow a path pretty much like the halyards will and attach outboard of the flag bags. If you add them now they will be very much in the way for attaching the halyards. So, they get postponed until after the halyards are done.

Add the Halyards
There’s nothing particularly complicated here – just difficult and time consuming. Add five signal flag halyards on each side between the flag bag pinrails and the holes on the yardarm. It’s easiest to start at the inside and alternate sides. Then add one more halyard from the starboard outboard pinrail up to the gaff.

The Last Stays
The last postponed side stays extend from the same place on the mast that all other stays seem to attach to a turnbuckle mounted just inside the forward inboard edge of the 40mm platform shield. That is based on close up photos of sister ships.

The Last Halyards
I missed this earlier and was incorrect when I stated that the mainmast had no halyards. Unlike the plans, photos of Chevalier conclusively show that there was a halyard at each mainmast yardarm end. So, even at this late date, I’ll add an eyebolt under the ECM B antennas near the yardarm ends. The connection point on the deck is far less obvious from the photos. Based on trajectory, it appears they were connected near the aft mainmast post, perhaps to cleats; which would be very difficult to add at this time. But, detail photos of sister ships show a good deal of “fuzzy looking stuff” on each side of the machine vent below the mainmast. And, this could well be the end point for these halyards. I’ll add some small pinrails aside the vent just forward of the aft post and tie off the halyards there.

The Antennas
Chevalier had a typical destroyer antenna arrangement. On each side, antenna wires connected the end of the forward yardarm, the antenna bracket on the sides of the aft stack, the antenna yard structure on the top of the forward stack and back to the yardarm ends in a 3 pointed triangle. The plans fail to show the bottom leg of this between the stacks. Nevertheless, photos prove it was there. The plans also fail to show insulators at the antenna connection points. Again, nevertheless close up photos show insulators around the aft stack bracket and vaguely show them at the yardarm ends. But they were certainly smaller than those on the Fletcher class. However, close up photos show no insulators at the ends of the forward stack antenna yard. Perhaps the ends of the yard themselves were insulators.

The second question is where were the lead-ins for the antennas? We have added two antenna trunks, one starboard by the aft stack and one forward on the 40mm platform. The plans show only a connection from the forward trunk to an additional wire between the forward stack yard and the top segment of the triangle. But that would provide a connection for only one of the antenna triangles. Close up photos of sister ships seem to solve the problem by vaguely showing a cross connection between the fore yardarm end antennas; which would be a typical destroyer design. The lead-in shown in the plans must have connected to that cross-connect piece rather than directly to the yard end segment. Additionally, study of close-up photos of sister ships show a connection between the aft trunk and the antenna system on the starboard side of the aft stack. That solves the issue and creates a very typical destroyer antenna design where both sides function as one antenna and two lead-ins exist one fore and one aft.

First, I’ll glue a lead-in to the aft trunk (a lead-in has already been attached to the forward trunk). Then I’ll add the two side triangles with insulators on the aft stack and the fore yardarm ends. Be sure you get these inside or outside of the already added rigging as appropriate. Next attach the lead-in from the aft trunk to both antenna wires on the starboard aft stack and add a short bit of rigging to connect the antennas wires on the port side. Now drape a short bit of antenna wire (the cross piece connector) over both of the upper yardarm end wires about 7/16” aft of the yardarm and glue the ends in place. Then drape the lead-in for the forward trunk over that cross piece. The rigging is done.

Masts and rigging starboard view

Masts and rigging starboard view

Foremast port forward view

Masts and rigging port aft view

Mainmast and rigging starboard aft view

There are a few things to do back there and they should be done before the main deck railing is added (which we are leading up to). The depth charge racks can be made in your choice of three ways – 1) from the GMM PE without scratch made depth charges (rather lame if you ask me), 2) from the GMM PE with scratch made depth charges which never really look all that great or 3) from the kit’s plastic parts (which on most other kits are unacceptable).

I very highly recommend using the kit’s parts. The Dragon depth charge racks have always been very nice. But, in this kit, some old annoyances have been corrected and these are unquestionably the best that I can think of. Painting the actual depth charges a different color (which was the case) will be a bit more challenging now that Dragon has corrected the missing top frames. But in return for that, the gaps and bumps in the depth charges are gone due to a redesign of the molds.

There is one possible exception. GMM has thoughtfully provided PE for both Mk9 roller racks (8 depth charges) and Mk3 racks (6 depth charges I think). The kit provides only the Mk9 version – which Chevalier carried. So I will use the kit’s parts. But if you need a shorter rack for whatever sister you are building, you may want to use the GMM Mk3 racks.

Combine parts H8 and H11, H9 and H12 (the roller racks) and two sets of H2 and H3 (the stowage racks). No enhancements are needed. They are that good. Keep track of port and starboard versions. The release mechanism near the aft end of the rack was inboard.

I’ll paint the depth charges a dark gray. Then I’ll add parts MA45 and MA47 to the racks (not to the hull). Step 5 of the kit’s instructions is woefully inadequate in providing any substantial clue about those two parts. Further, adding them to the hull first and then later just assuming that the depth charge racks will fit them within the required very small tolerance is just a bad plan. They are supports that go under the depth charge racks that slightly hang over the stern. Keep close track of port and starboard racks and supports. The supports glue to the rack legs at three places (two outboard and one in). The angular braces should be outboard. Now those two parts can be used to correctly locate the roller racks fore and aft.

Now let’s get it all added as follows:

• The roller racks with the support brackets pushed forward against the hull. Paint the bracket that is below the deck level Navy Gray (like the hull).
• The stowage racks.
• Two pairs of 20mm barrel cooling tubes (unused kit parts G36 and G39) outside the 20mm tub forward.
• A bit of extra railing (I had to go to leftovers from another kit to get netted railing) aft between the roller racks with a notch cut in the center for the aft chock.
• A chock (part K12) centered aft.
• The aft Ensign staff would not be assembled when the ship was underway. So I’ll add some bits of thin styrene rods on the deck.
• Two davits (made from thin brass rod and a turnbuckle), one each side between the forward end of the roller racks and the stowage racks. There are no spare GMM PE davits. But, although they are excellent in appearance, they are also two dimensional. If a kit provides decent looking davits, being 3 dimensional, I’ll often use them instead with a turnbuckle added. And a bit of bent rod with a turnbuckle actually makes a very nice looking davit.

Fantail port profile – note placement of parts MS45/47

Fantail aft view – rails and chock

Fantail

The K-Guns
First, as mentioned earlier, Chevalier (and all early Gearings as far as I can tell) carried 3 K-guns per side rather than 2 as the instructions indicate. The kit does provide 6 total, so it seems to be only an error in the instructions. That error is actually mentioned in the GMM instructions. So I presume that the GMM railings will still be an accurate fit. But, the precise location of the K-guns still depends on the end points of the GMM PE railing. But, first we just need to build the K-guns and get them painted.

As with the aft roller and stowage racks, you have 3 choices – GMM PE with or without scratch made depth charges or the kit’s parts. As with the aft racks, the kit’s K-gun mold design is excellent and has pretty much removed all typical deficiencies. I’ll definitely use them. Combine six sets of parts G11 and G12. Don’t worry; there are no port and starboard versions just yet.

But that will soon change. Now bend and add part MA28 to the starboard racks and part MA27 to the port racks. There is no GMM PE substitute unless you build the entire rack from the GMM PE. It is the orientation of parts MA28 and MA27 that distinguish the port racks from the starboard ones. The MA27/28 parts should be pointed aft with the narrow “X” shaped support outboard under the end of the plastic parts. Pay attention to the geometry, its easy to get confused and to end up installing them backwards or to need to re-bend, which will often break them. Despite being thicker than the GMM PE, they seem to break quite easily from re-bending.

Now prepare and paint the launchers (parts K6). I’ll go super-detail and add a valve wheel to each on that pointy spot behind the depth charge. Those valves were used to adjust the distance that the charge would be launched. I had to go to previous build leftovers to find enough valve wheels. Last (more super-detail) the charges were held in place on their arbors by small chains that were released by a trip mechanism when the launcher fired. No one in the world has chains that small so I’ll just wrap a bit of dark hair around the depth charge.

The Bulwarks Chocks
Step 7 of the kit’s instruction adds a chock (part K12) inside the cutout on the bulwarks. Unfortunately, the cutout is rectangular, the chock is rounded and round chocks don’t fit in square holes. But the GMM PE chocks do fit. So, after some effort trying to “square” part K12, I gave up and added a GMM PE chock instead.

The Main Deck Railings
There’s something to do to the railings before they can be added. Take a look at the GMM instructions which suggest that, in order to thicken the appearance of the chocks, additional layers of PE chocks should be added to the railings both outside and inside. Darn – just when I thought I had a foolproof technique nailed down for adding plastic chocks inside the GMM railing chock cutouts, someone has to go and change it all. Unfortunately, cutting the chocks out of the railings is just not practical in this case. It takes quite a while to do as suggested and to also get it right. And frankly, I think the time could have been better spent elsewhere. Personally, I think things would look just fine with only the single chock layer that is incorporated into the railings. But, I must admit, it looks just a bit better when the extra layers are added – providing all those tiny PE pieces are added perfectly and the chock hole is still open.

I’ve made one more “improvement” to the forward railing sections. That thin vertical structure near their aft ends is a support structure for the forward 20mm deck just forward of the bulwark. But, it’s just a bit short. I added a single piece of railing bar to its top and it fits much better now. GMM included the supports in their PE because the kit didn’t include it (but should have).

Add it all to the Deck
In addition to the K-Guns and railings we’re also going to need the aft 40mm supports (parts MA10) the aft life raft supports (parts MA20) and we might as well add the other life raft supports (parts MA21 and MA17). So get them painted if they aren’t already.

As already mentioned, the location of the K-guns is dependant on the locations of the railing ends. So, let’s start with those in an effort to “tune in” on the correct positions for the K-guns.

CAUTION: The port and starboard railings were different and both the 40mm tub supports and the life raft racks were in different locations on each side. Be sure you keep good track of which railing segments apply to which side.

ANOTHER CAUTION: The lengths of the various railing segments are not quite right for Chevalier. After assembly of the GMM railings, the space between them for the K-guns is considerably greater than what is show in the plans for this ship and the aft K-guns in particular, are too far aft. Nevertheless, the PE railings in the GMM PE set are what we have to work with. There will be some modification to the aft railings done later – for Chevalier anyway.

AND YET ANOTHER NOTE: Much later while adding the whaleboat in step 25 of this document, it became evident that the boat davits will fit much better and be more likely to end up being straight, if the davits were not placed inboard of the railings. If you would like to have an easier job of installing the whaleboat, you should cut small gaps for the davits in the port railings now. But I do not recommend adding the davits at this time.

First I’ll add the two GMM railing segments (one per side) that adjoin the aft end of the bulwarks. Next, I’ll add kit parts MA10 to each side centered under the 40mm tubs that they support. These should be added to the deck, rather than the hull edge because railing needs to pass outboard of them. In my case, they are just a bit short and some extra gap filling glue is needed both above and below.

Next, bend and add a part MA20 (aft raft rack) to each side as shown in step 7 of the kit’s instructions. These things were free standing and unlike many other DDs, they did not attach to the deck house. The outboard legs go right on the deck edges where railing would normally be. They are located immediately behind the already added railing segments that meet the bulwarks.

The next aft-most railing segments are next. They do not pass outboard of the raft racks but rather meet the aft end of the raft racks and do pass outboard of the MA10 supports. The aft end of these segments marks the forward edge of the forward K-gun racks.

Now add the aft railing segments curved slightly aft to bend around the stern and meet the depth charge roller racks. There is a curious issue here in that the starboard rail is just slightly longer (by one very small length with a chock) than the port rail. Nevertheless, the K-guns were located in the same places port and starboard. The plans do show a chock immediately aft of the aft-most starboard K-gun. But since that segment is not part of the port rail, if I add the starboard K-guns in front of the railing end and keep the port/starboard K-gun symmetry, then there will be a small gap on the port side. I’ve been inclined to remove that bothersome railing segment. Unfortunately, photos don’t help to solve this issue.

But, test fitting explains the issue. If the aft port railing is added as-is then, according to the Chevalier plans (I can’t speak for Gearing), the aft-most port K-gun will be about 5/32” too far aft. It appears that the rail is about 5/32” too short. That’s not much and it could be some difference in the way I bent the aft end of the railings or exactly where I attached them to the roller racks. As far as the starboard rail is concerned, because it’s already 3/32” longer than the port one, it will need another 2/32” added to it to match the port rail. And, that will duplicate the Chevalier plans. It appears that, for Chevalier at least, the port rail is 5/32” short and the starboard rail is off by 2/32”. I’ll go to the spares and discover that there are many leftover 5/32” webbed railing segments. And, much to my delight, test fitting of the K-gun racks looks like a 5/32” railing segment is exactly what’s needed to fill the gap between the K-guns. So, I’ll add a 5/32” segment to the port rail and 2/32” to the starboard rail. Now both the K-guns and that bothersome starboard chock will be in the correct locations.

Now add the K-guns racks. First add the fore and aft ones tight against the railings. Be sure that the launcher racks point aft. Then add the center racks – centered between the others. Last add 5/32” lengths of extra railing between the racks. If you don’t have the extra railing, it was common that just a chain (a 5/32” length of a single rail) existed between the K-gun racks.

Next, add the K-gun launchers. This is always a bit tricky. In fact, I considered adding them to the racks before the racks were added to the deck. The depth charge on the launcher should sit on the launcher rack. I have learned to not trim off the mounting tab on the bottom of the launchers. They fit better if that remains on the part. The trick is to get them added so that the launcher is vertical to the deck and the depth charge is horizontal and parallel to the rack.

Now I’ll add the K-gun davits which were used to move depth charges from the stowage racks to the launchers – and should be positioned such that they have access to both. It was my intent to use the plastic davits with PE turnbuckles added. But, while removing the davits from their sprue, three of the six broke. I forgot how fragile these are. If it was just one or even two, I might fix them. But three – no way. So, I’ll use the GMM PE davits – which are really quite good anyway. That finishes the K-guns and they look decent enough. They never look great. I’ll have to work on that.

Before I actually add the railings, I’ll add parts MA17 (life raft racks) as shown in step 7 of the kit’s instructions. Just like the MA20 aft racks they are free standing, do not attach to the deckhouse and bend the same way. The difficulty here is getting them to position properly inside that very tight and difficult space aft of the main deck to O1 level ladder and behind the bulwarks. Next time I build this kit, if ever, I’ll add them much earlier, possibly before the bulwarks are added.

It’s impossible to tell from plans or photos if the forward life raft racks (parts MA21) go inboard or outboard of the railings. Certainly, like all these racks, the rafts themselves are outboard. But, probably the racks are integrated with the rails and at this scale placing them inboard of the rails will work fine. So the next step will be to add the forward main deck railings. Getting the bend just right on the bow is always the most difficult thing to do – and at the same time leaving room for a bow chock below the rails.

Now I’ll add parts MA21, the forward life raft racks. As is all too often the case, the kit’s instructions (step 7) are terribly insufficient. There is simply no worthwhile information at all to help you get these things properly bent. The previous raft racks were pretty much guess work. But these are just fantasy. By the time I figured it out, the parts were already broken from over bending and I added them, with the broken parts, as best I could. The correct bend, I think, involves bending the long angular side piece so that it is outboard of the rack and then glued to the aft tab that tends to fall off as soon as you bend it. If Dragon intends to provide complicated and high quality three dimensional PE, they also need to provide something in the way of bending instructions – or at the very least, a decent size drawing of what it should look like after bending.

I’ll leave the bow chock for later after I decide about what to use for the jackstaff (GMM PE, kit parts or scratch built). Even the kit’s instructions provide two options for this chock

Bow rails

Forward starboard racks and supports

Amidships starboard racks and supports

Starboard K-guns

Aft rails

Port K-guns, racks and supports

Port forward racks and supports

The MK-37
First, I’ll do some slight modification to part N5. Obviously, I’ll file off the molded ladders to be replaced later with PE. But I’ll also do something that I have always wanted to do. I’ll drill and file open the two lowest hatches on the front of part N5 and add two GMM PE generic hatches hanging open below them. The MK-37 was a very crowded (three men inside) and very hot device. Even in battle, some hatches were usually open. Good work Dragon. This is the first MK-37 I’ve ever seen where open the hatches were realistically possible.

Now combine parts N5 and N2, add part N6 and part B4 (the base that I chose not to add to the pilot house top earlier). I added just a little bit of putty to the gaps between parts N5 and N2.

The Radars
For a plastic radar the kit’s is not bad at all. But, GMM’s PE version is far superior. I am a bit disappointed that in this kit Dragon did not include their excellent pre-folded PE radar that was in some previous kits. The only part I’m not sure about is the radar base and support structure. GMM’s version is always weak, sometimes breaks during folding, is difficult to properly fold and get level and really doesn’t look all that good anyway. The kit’s part is solid, perhaps a bit thick and oversized, but it provides a strong and level support.

Anyway, build the PE radar according to GMM’s instructions (excluding the base ). Bend the Mk12 radar around a toothpick (about 3/32”), add the sides, and bend and add the IFF antenna. Note that the rectangular IFF frame needs to sit flat over the IFF antenna and still touch the MK12 antenna. The result is that the IFF antenna should not be bent quite as much as the diagram implies.

Slightly bend the Mk22 antenna and add the feedhorn. It isn’t shown in the GMM instructions but it was there. Bend the shorter wires into a four legged support with the longer leg bent to a feedhorn shape. Add the Mk22 facing forward by passing its long leg through the holes in the side supports. The Mk22 now defines the starboard side of the radar. There is no need for the “Mk12 pivot” part in the PE. That feature is provided by the long leg of the Mk22 antenna. Now bend and add the “support” bracket. It’s very important that you get this added squarely in all dimensions or the finished radar will sit crookedly.

I decided against using kit part E2 as the radar base. It’s just not quite accurate enough. And besides, this time the GMM base PE part bent correctly on the first try and fit nice and level as I added it to the top of the MK-37. The top of Chevalier’s Mk-37 was NOT painted Deck Gray (unlike some other ships). So, the radar base can be added now.

The side ladders will not be added at this time since they will effectively block all effort to paint the telescopic sight bloomers black. I also have not yet added the radar assembly to the support. So, the parts to be painted Haze Gray are the radar assembly with support bracket added and the Mk-37 assembly with radar base assembly added.

Now paint the bloomers flat black. There’s not much relief for the bloomers in the mold. Just paint a tall thin rectangle and that works well enough. Then add the PE ladders on each side just in front of the telescopic sights.

To finish up the Mk-37, I’ll add a small bit of cut railing as the gun captain’s sight and add the radar assembly to the Mk-37. And last, I’ll add it all to the pilot house top.

Mk-37

The Chevalier plans clearly show a small crane mounted starboard outboard of the aft 40mm support bracket (part MA10). There is no evidence of one also being port. It’s just a small right triangle shape of rods with an eyebolt at its end. I’ll scratch build it from .020” styrene rod.

For the floater net baskets you have your choice of the kit’s plastic parts or the GMM PE parts. There is no question that the PE parts are superior. That’s no reflection on Dragon. It’s just that plastic molding; as good as it’s become, just can’t yet mold a net of that scale.

Chevalier had six floater baskets, four starboard and two port as shown in the photos below. Gearing’s were in different locations. I’ll also add some bits of .025”rod painted dark gray inside the baskets to represent the floats that were rubber by this point in the war. Earlier they were cork. Unlike Gearing, the Chevalier plans show all floaters outboard of the railings on the O1 level. None were mounted on the bridge wings.

Forward floater net baskets

Starboard amidships floater net baskets (three) and crane

Port amidships floater net basket (one)

It’s nearing time to get this build finished. The guns come last and the 5” guns are next. The gun bodies provided by the kit are, with no doubt at all, the best plastic molded 5”/38s bodies I have ever seen. But, that is still not all that good as compared to some 3rd party resin and PE guns. The first item is that to be consistent within this build, I’ll need to remove the side ladders and replace them with PE. I’ll also remove the simulated rung ladders below the rear access hatches and the simulated hand rail outboard of those hatches. Both will be replaced with PE.

But there is a significant problem. The barrels, although straight with holes in their ends and otherwise excellent, have no bloomers. Of the photos that I have of Chevalier, ALL show bloomers on the 51 (most forward) and 53 (most aft) guns. Only one shows no bloomers on the 52 (forward O1 level) gun. Photos of early Gearing are the same. One shows no bloomers on the 52 but all show them on 51 and 53.

What to do? I do have some leftover barrels from some Corsair Armada resin guns that have bloomers and they can be made to fit. But they don’t fit all that well and, being resin, tend to be a bit bent and are not quite the same length or diameter as the kit’s barrels. If I were building this model to be the very best possible depiction of Chevalier that it could possibly be, I would now look for a third party source for all three guns. There are several excellent choices.

But, I have committed to building the Dragon Gearing kit as Chevalier. And whether I was building Chevalier or Gearing I would still have the same issue – I need bloomers at least on the 51 and 53 guns. There seems to be no solution other than to use the antique approach of creating the bloomers from a build-up of white glue. At least the kit provides one extra gun in case I totally screw one up. It should also provide barrels with bloomers!

Combine parts M1 (base) and M3 (barrels) with the barrels elevated as you wish. Then add part M2 (the gun enclosure). Now slowly build up layers of white glue (Elmer’s) filling in the gaps below and above the barrels and gradually building up something that looks like a bloomer. Take your time. White glue dries slowly compared to what you are used to. It also dries with a smooth surface and bloomers were not smooth. I’ll add the wrinkles to the bloomers with a final layer of unevenly added CA glue.

Now let’s combine everything that will be painted Haze Gray:

• Add part M5 to the front bottoms of each gun.
• Add the rung ladders (3 rungs each) below the aft access hatches.
• Add the handrails (bits of railing) outside the aft access hatches.
• Add the side ladders on the left side of each gun.

And it’s time now to spray the assemblies Haze Gray. Then paint the top of the guns Deck Gray and paint the bloomers Flat Black. Paint the captains hatch covers (parts M4) Haze Gray and Deck Gray on the top. Note that all three guns had these on Chevalier.

Finish the guns by adding the captains hatch covers and the PE sights from the GMM set. And, add the guns to the model. I used plastic glue for this so that I would have some time to fine tune their alignment.

Comment: Despite the lack of bloomers, these are the best dual 5”/38 guns I have ever seen at this scale!

Guns 51 and 52

Gun 53

By now it should be clear that Chevalier carried three quad 40mm guns aft and two dual 40mm guns forward. We’ve already added the Mk51 directors on the bridge wings that controlled the forward dual guns. But we still need three Mk51s aft in their tubs.

The Quad 40mm guns
We’ll need three guns. The kit provides four. That’s nice just in case and might address the needs of some other Gearing sister ship. I’m going to assemble as much as possible that should be Haze Gray, spray paint that and then add the rest – which is the barrels with their flat black bloomers. Since the barrels will not be added now, the gun sights (that mount on top of the barrels) will also be delayed.

Combine parts P4 and P3. I must say that I do not see the motive for creating two parts here for what seems that it could have been one. Now add those to part P2. Next add part P5 on the gunner’s left side of the gun and part P6 on the right side. These don’t fit all that well and unfortunately need precise alignment and overall “squareness” with the rest of the gun or else the barrels will be askew. You might try adding them to part P2 first and then adding the combined P4 and P3. Either way you will need to get parts P5 and P6 square – and it’s not easy. Just as an aside, this would be MUCH easier and more accurate if P5 and P6 could be designed as a single part.

Now add part P7 to the right side of the gun, angling it slightly forward. Next are the seats. The parts provided by the kit and GMM appear to be identical. I chose to use the kit’s parts M2 and MA3 since the kit’s PE is a little thicker and stronger than the GMM and I know these parts tend to get bent easily.

That’s all for now. I’ll add the very fragile hand wheels after spray painting. And, since I intend to paint the deck Deck Gray, I’ll postpone the addition of the rear railing until after painting. And, as already mentioned the barrels and sights will also be postponed until after painting.

So, now it’s time to spray them Haze Gray. Then paint the platforms Deck Gray. The barrels should be Haze Gray with the recoil area painted Flat Black. Add them and be sure they align with one another. Add the GMM PE railing.

Now add the hand wheels – either part MA14 or the GMM “hand wheels” – they appear identical. I started by using the MA14s, but after breaking 3 of my first 5 attempts during bending; I changed to the GMM parts and had no more trouble. These are small and difficult parts.

Next, add the GMM sight guards to the sights and add those assemblies to the guns. This is not as hard as it appears once you figure out what to shape the guards around – hint: 3/64” rod.

Finally, I’ll add the guns shipped (at rest). Several photos of Chevalier show all three guns pointing due aft when shipped.

The Dual 40mm guns
The dual (twin) 40s will follow the same procedure with the barrels, sights, hand wheels and railings postponed until after the gun body assemblies have been painted.

Oh yeah – I remember these from previous Dragon builds. Let’s see:

• Part Q4 does not fit into its mounting hole on the deck – you’ll need to file down the mounting pin or enlarge the hole.
• Part Q3 does not fit into part Q1 – you’ll need to entirely remove the mounting tab from part Q3.
• Part Q1 does not fit into its mounting hole on part Q4 – file it down or balance it on Q4 as best you can.

Or alternatively replace them with a third party gun. But, I am building THIS project, I already know that other third party products are superior and I don’t need to reaffirm that point. So, I’ll do the best I can with these parts and the result, although tiresome and unnecessarily difficult, will be quite acceptable. I’ve been here before. But Dragon really needs to rework their dual 40mm mold so that the parts fit!

Well anyway combine parts Q1, Q3 and Q4 as best you can and then add the seats (part MA34). The rest of the parts will come after painting.

Spray the assemblies Haze Gray and paint the platforms Deck Gray. As is usual, the barrels should be Haze Gray and their recoil springs should be Flat Black. Add them now, but be aware that they don’t fit quite as well as the barrels on the quad guns. If you want to align them “shipped” (at their rest points parallel to the deck) you’ll have to trim just a bit off their rear ends. Add the GMM PE railing, hand wheels and sights and sight guards.

And now I’ll add the guns shipped. Photos of Chevalier show these guns pointing due aft when at rest.

The Last Three Mk51s
Combine parts N1 and N3 to make 3 directors and add them, pointing to coincide with the guns they each control (due aft in my case), in the amidships Mk51 tubs.

Quad 40mm guns and Mk51s

Starboard dual 40mm gun

Port dual 40mm gun

There are three whale boats available in this kit; which is very nice in case you are building one of the Gearings that had two boats (one each side). But, if you are building a single boat model, as was the case for both Chevalier and Gearing in 1945, you will certainly want to use kit part H10. I will state here that it is the very best single part plastic whale boat I have ever even imagined. Usually I torment for a while over whether to add a kit’s boat or spend the time and money to buy a third party boat. But not this time, the boat is all you could ask for. Well, I could probably ask for more, but I’m really not even sure what it would be. I will take advantage of this wonderful mold and detail paint the boat to the max. But, except for a GMM PE screw and rudder, I really don’t see anything beyond that in the way of additional detail.

So, paint the boat (part H10) as you wish. Photos of Chevalier in 1945 do show that the boat was flat black below the waterline. Add an unpainted brass GMM screw (propeller) and a GMM rudder/tiller, and the boat is done. Note that if you somewhat offset the rudder/tiller from a fore/aft alignment, it makes it easier to attach the boat pulley later. That was really easy as compared to what it usually takes to build a decent whale boat.

But, actually adding a boat to a destroyer is not so easy. It normally involves super accurate placement of the davits and then holding the boat up against them until the glue sets or the building a temporary support structure that the boat can sit level on while the davits are added. But, of course, you need to be able to remove that structure when the boat is done. All too often, the davits turn out a bit crooked. And, in this case the davits (parts H18 and H19) really don’t fit into their mounting holes at all. That is probably not a kit design issue but rather that the railings are blocking a small portion of their mounting holes. If you followed my suggestion concerning the davits when adding the railings earlier, this should not be an issue for you now. Nevertheless, in this case the davits really should be added last in an effort to improve their orientation. Further, the plans for Chevalier show a completely different davit orientation than does the kit’s instructions (step 6). Curious – but I’ll go with the kit’s suggestion under the assumption that it will work. My fingers are crossed.

Luckily, in this case there is a boat skid (part MA22) that also happens to have a slot on it into which the boat can sit. I suspect the slot was not actually present in the real ship. But who knows? And, it will be of value for getting the boat installed level. But, it’s so far forward that it really won’t help at all with the aft davit – only with the forward one. Note that photos of some Gearings show two skids (one aft and one forward). But not in this case of Chevalier in 1945. So, I’ll cut a styrene support structure for the aft end of the boat that is exactly the same height as the boat skid. I’ll use that structure (without glue) to hold up the aft end of the boat while I add the davits.

So to get started, I’ll glue the skid to the deck and deckhouse edge (but not to the boat yet) as the instructions indicate just aft of the 20mm tub and just forward of the cable reel on the port side amid. Now I’ll add a 5” bitt (kit part C4) to the main deck slightly inboard and immediately below what will become the boat center. I missed this earlier. This bitt is shown on the Chevalier plans and the bitt that already exists adjacent to the railings is actually incorrect – a minor error in the kit design (for Chevalier anyway). At this time it’s impossible to remove it without damage to railings and deck, so I’ll leave it there.

Now add the boat, glued to the boat skid far forward and just resting on the support piece aft. Next add the forward davit (part H19). In my case it was just a few 32nds short of reaching the boat forward deck and I added a short bit of GMM boat pulley to the davit to make up the difference. There simply is not enough space here for a full length GMM boat pulley.

Add an equivalent amount of GMM boat pulley to the aft davit (part H18), remove the temporary aft boat support and add the aft davit attached aft on the boat. It is a difficult fit to get the aft davit vertical. I now realize that the davits should have been placed father outboard with gaps for them cut in the railings.

Now add the GMM PE manropes, trimmed to fit. And, I added a couple of davit ropes. Neither the plans nor photos define the locations of these. But photos of sisters indicate that they attached to the O1 level in about the positions used.

Whale boat in progress with temporary support structure aft

Whale boat completed

The kit supplies two different shapes for the life rafts. It provides 10 oval rafts (part K30) and 8 rectangular ones (part H1). The GMM PE set provides 8 oval raft bottoms and also 8 rectangular bottoms. Both photos and plans of Chevalier in 1945 show that she carried 6 rectangular rafts all mounted horizontally. She (in other times) and sisters had other configurations. But, once again this kit shines forth and provides ample parts for an assortment of Gearings.

The first step is to cut out the bottoms of the 6 rectangular rafts that we will be using and to replace them with the GMM PE raft bottoms. It would be a really nice feature in some future kits if alternate rafts without bottoms were provided. Now add the GMM PE oars (2 in each raft), 2 bits a bit of small round rod to represent the 2 water barrels that were in each raft and 2 bits of small rectangular styrene to represent the equipment and food boxes. Last, I’ll add some tie down ropes which are shown on the plans in a typical inverted “V” shape.

Add the rafts to the racks aligned with the tops.

The kit supplies parts for 12 twin and 6 single 20mm guns. The GMM PE set provides parts for 12 single or twin guns and the kit’s PE provides for another 12 single or twin guns. So, there should be enough to build just about any Gearing at any time. In 1945 Chevalier carried eight twin guns. I believe Gearing carried nine.

Normally I first paint the gun bodies and the elevation wheels (just so they are visible) with a metallic dark gray or Tamiya’s “gun metal”. The shoulder rests should be flat black and the gun support posts should be Haze Gray. Normally at this point, I agonize a little over whether to use a kit’s plastic gun barrels (which are usually too fat, but 3d) or to use the many left over PE barrels that I have (which are thin and elegant but flat). In this case the kit’s barrels are the thinnest and most accurate plastic barrels I have ever imagined and they certainly will be used. Although the kit’s PE looks acceptable (but very thin) I’ll use the GMM PE with which I am quite familiar.

Now the trouble starts. The kits instructions on page 1, assembly D are very clear – put the two barrels (L7 right hand and L1 left hand) side by side in the slot on the top of the base (part L2). But, they don’t fit! Maybe it’s because they have been pre-painted – an all too common error in kit design as far as I’m concerned. Or possibly it’s just me. But try as hard as I might – they do not fit! The only way that I was able to get them to fit and look good was to first glue the barrels together (not at all easy to do with the barrels ends perfectly even and parallel), then file the slot in the top of the base part to make it wider and finally more or less balance the combined barrels in and somewhat on top of that slot. If the barrels are added as shown in the instructions (I think) they will point downward which is not very realistic. Instead, I located the forward lower tabs on the barrels ON the end of the slot rather than in front of it. But my main complaint is that I see no reason at all for the two barrels to be separate parts. It just adds a lot of extra effort and possible error for no gain at all. The detail is nice. But the insides where the parts touch are invisible anyway and they were BLACK! The detail is all invisible. Dragon – combine the barrel parts and maybe they will then fit into the slot on the base post.

Now, to the assemblies, add:

• The Mk14 gun sight (part L3) centered between the barrels.
• The splinter shields. I’ll use the somewhat more detailed GMM shields. But, the detail goes on the inside anyway. Note that if you have installed the barrels in an elevated position (good for a ship in combat), the shields were attached to the base and did not elevate with the barrels.
• The elevation wheels. Again, I’ll use the GMM version just because.
• The shoulder harnesses/pads. And again I’ll use the GMM version because I am very familiar with them.
• I will not add the ammo canisters (parts L5) because this model is being done in stand down mode and the ammo would have been locked away in those ammo lockers. If you are doing a model in combat, they should certainly be added. They were black.
• In nearly every model I build I try to add at least one new detail that I have not done before. I’ve already done a few on this build, but now I’ll add one more - a short bit of black thread to the back of each gun to represent a restraining strap. After having done so, I must confess that black thread is just a bit out of scale and too dark. In the future I might try some PE sprue bent to shape and painted a leather brown. I think those waist straps were leather.

All considered, despite the early troubles with fit, I think that these guns have turned out to be the best looking 20mm guns that I have ever built at this scale. And certainly, the quality and detail of the kit’s parts was a significant contributor.

TROUBLES: I had not yet drilled a mounting hole for the port amidships 20mm gun and thought it would be just fine to do so now (first mistake). Unfortunately, since I had missed the fifth support post for that platform, which was not provided by the kit but indicated in the plans (second mistake), the platform broke loose from its mounts and could not be re-installed level without its complete removal and the removal and reinstall of the whale boat and its davits. That’s a lot of work, but it did take two mistakes to create it. After carefully removing all those parts and cleaning and repainting some, the additional support post was added and I was able to re-install the 20mm platform level. It’s always interesting that not only actual ships but models as well, are stronger and more secure if all the posts and braces are properly added. I am sure that if that missing fifth post had been noticed back in step 15, this issue never would have happened. Anyway, all that involved the reinstallation of the boat and davits. And, in the process I relocated the davit ropes and added turnbuckles. So, future photos of the whale boat will be a bit different from past photos.

In the photos below you may also notice that I added the GMM PE mop and broom rack forward on the port side in the only remaining open bulkhead space.

Starboard forward rafts and 20mm guns

Starboard amidships raft and 20mm gun

Aft 20mm guns

Port amidships raft and 20mm gun

Port forward rafts, 20mm guns and mop rack

There are still a few things remaining:

Another broom and mop rack starboard.
I liked the GMM PE mop rack so much that I built another one from bits of railing and some leftover single brooms and mops from the PE and located it next to the log desk on the quarterdeck. It seems like a reasonable place for last second clean-up.

The anchors
These certainly could have been added much earlier. But, I’ll do them now. Unless you intend to attach them to the chain, which really should have been done MUCH earlier, cut the loop off the top of part K28 (at this point it will interfere with installation) and add it to part K43 at a fairly high angle. Then add the assembly. See the kit’s completed diagrams for the correct angle on the anchors.

The bow chock and jackstaff
There are several options here. 1) add only a bow chock (part G2), 2) add a chock and a jackstaff (part K35) or 3) add the GMM PE version of chock and jackstaff. Because of its “3d-ness”, and the fact that all photos of Chevalier show a jackstaff present, I’ll use the combined kit part K35. To that I’ll add a small cleat (a bit of bent railing) near the bottom and a PE eyebolt at the top with a bit of halyard between them.

Now for the angular supports. You could use the GMM PE or use bits of styrene rod. Or, you could add none at all, which in the case of Chevalier does seem to be the case. No supports are visible in any photos or shown in the plans. So, I’ll just skip them. That was easy.

The hull decals
For the hull numbers I used individual numbers from a GMM Naval Air decal set. The kit’s depth indicators were used. For Chevalier the locations and positioning of these was different than the kit’s instructions indicated for Gearing. Nevertheless, all the required decals existed in the kit’s decal set.

The screws (propellers)
There is some confusion as to whether Chevalier or any Gearing at any particular date had three or four blade screws. In his excellent book about the Gearings, Robert Sumrall explains that the original design three bladed screws created a considerable vibration that could break welds due to a resonance issue. On some ships those were replaced with a modified three bladed screw with a different pitch. That helped, but it was not until the installation of four bladed screws that the problem was actually solved. He also mentions that it is impossible to define the dates at which each Gearing was refitted with four blade screws. After exhausting numerous excellent resources, I still do not know what type of screws Chevalier had in the summer of 1945. So, since she was a relatively early Gearing, I’ll use the three bladed screws from the kit. If you are building a later Gearing, I would say 1949 or later, you may want to consider using four bladed screws. In hopes of finding an answer, the addition of the screws has been postponed as long as possible.

So add them now according to step 5 of the kit’s instructions. Pay attention to port (part C7) and starboard (part C6).

Sailors
I’ve now collected 25 or so of the excellent Dragon plastic sailors. That’s just about enough to equip a small ship in stand down mode. But, the Dragon sailors are all wearing helmets and that’s just not appropriate for a non-combat situation. So, I guess I’ll continue collecting them for some future project. Meanwhile, on this build I’ll use L’Arsenal’s resin sailors scattered around somewhat randomly.

Starboard bow

Starboard stern

About all I can say is “WOW”. This is one heck of a kit. And, arguably I suppose, the best 1/350 scale plastic kit ever made. Well, maybe the best at any scale. It is difficult and is not without a few problems as mentioned above. But, if this is the future of plastic modeling, I’m sold! The detail is incredible and there is still plenty of room for scratch built enhancements or for conversion to a different ship. And you will end up with MANY parts leftover. I may just build this kit again soon as another ship – perhaps as Frank Knox, for which plans exist. And, I very much look forward to later era FRAM versions of these Gearings. Perhaps even a Sumner version. My total build time was 208 hours – a bit more than expected but there was a lot of scratch work.

In conclusion – buy it and build it – with patience, you will not be disappointed at all.