3D-WILD
1/350 3-D Printed IJN Early War aircraft sets
(A6M2 Zero, D3A1 Val, B5N2 Kate)
 



(NOTE: This is a combined review of three different subject sets that are each sold separately.)

Reviewed April 2022
by Dan Kaplan
 
3D-Wild is a new company producing accessories and kits for modelers. According to their website, they specialize in “producing high-quality miniatures, dioramas, model kits, and other products for wargamers, modelers and fans of miniatures all over the world. As of today, most of our products are being produced by the most advanced 3D-printers in the 3D-printing industry.” This includes sets of 1/350 aircraft.

The three types of aircraft covered in this review comprised the air groups of all of the Imperial Japanese Navy’s front-line aircraft carriers in the 1941-late 1942 timeframe. Until now, only three model manufacturers (Hasegawa, Fujimi, and Pit-Road) have offered A6M2 Type 0 “Zero”, D3A1 Type 99 “Val”, and B5N2 Type 97 “Kate” aircraft in 1/350 scale, and all of these are styrene injection versions. Hasegawa and Fujimi’s versions require full assembly and painting, while Pit-Road offered finished and painted aircraft that just required decals for their markings.

There are certain tradeoffs between those choices. Typically, the injection versions from Fujimi and Hasegawa are pretty good on shape, scale and details. However, the assembly and finishing of multiple part aircraft can be time-consuming, particularly when there are noticeable seams to fill and sprue runner attachment points to file down. Plus, wing and control surface cross-sections can be on the thick side (i.e., over scale). Not to mention that injection aircraft universally come with solid canopies with molded frames; any attempt at greater realism requires their removal and replacement with pricey photo-etch versions. Aircraft markings have been limited to some of the aircraft aboard the carriers Akagi, Hiryu, and Shokaku; these vary by the set.

Conversely, Pit-road’s pre-assembled aircraft eliminate most assembly and finishing problems, but are more expensive on a per unit basis. For the most part, these same pieces offer only black painted canopy glass, and, notably, the finish quality can vary between aircraft types. Plus, markings for pre-assembled aircraft have typically been limited to just a few aircraft from the carriers Akagi or Shokaku. Perhaps more importantly, these are now out-of-production.

3D-Wild has recently opted to enter this ring with 3D resin printed aircraft. Their line-up includes both early war and late war IJN aircraft. (They also offer modern USN aircraft.) They provide a largely complete, though unpainted, aircraft with a printed canopy frame as part of the fuselage, along with an open cockpit. This means there is far less assembly, seam filling, and handling. Beyond those attributes, 3D-Wild offers two other features that help differentiate its aircraft from the injection molded crowd.

One is configuration. Whereas all the other companies offer only flight-ready, takeoff configurations with loadouts that have to be altered to depict a stowed configuration, 3D-Wild offers the modeler different configuration options. Each type of aircraft differs in the number of configurations available. One has to check 3D-Wild’s website for the specific aircraft type, but generally speaking, it comes down to:

a) flight ready with extended wingtips;
b) stowed with folded wing tips; and
c) which combines (a) or (b) with alternative weapon load-outs.

While (c) is more applicable to the Vals and Kates, know that there is a late war fighter-bomber version of the A6M2 Zero. As the extreme example, the Kates have eight possible configurations.

Also, please note that each set of six aircraft is sold as one configuration only; there are no mixed sets.

The other key feature is the full extent of their decal options. 3D-Wild has done some extensive research and provided tail codes and striping options for an extraordinary number of historically correct aircraft.   The decals for each type of aircraft are the same, regardless of the set configuration.

 

The 3-D WILD review sets
Each set comes in a clear, light vinyl box. Included are six unpainted, but nearly complete, aircraft. Typically, the wing and fuselage/vertical stabilizer/rudder are printed as one unit, along with tailplanes, belly tank or weapon, and canopy frame. They are packaged upside down in two rows of three aircraft each. Each row of aircraft is nestled, canopy down, within a long U-shaped channel made of paper and glued to a thin paperboard sheet. The backing board is attached to a central band that, together with the backing board, positions the entire raft within the vinyl box. Each aircraft is taped to the channel using medium tact, Tamiya -like tape. It’s very smart packaging, meant to hold each aircraft securely while protecting the fragile canopy.

A note in large lettering cautions one to open carefully to avoid damages. The need for great care extends to peeling the tape off the aircraft fuselage; I accidentally, and quite easily, broke off one Val and one Zero tailplane when peeling off the tape a little too quickly.

Propellers, landing gear, and (if from a stowed configuration) wing tips are packaged together in a separate, clear vinyl sleeve, as are two sheets of decals. Also included are two randomly printed aircraft that are clearly imperfect cast-offs, and are meant to be used for practice. Practice here can be defined as sanding, gluing and/or painting. It’s a very smart, customer-focused addition.
Nakajima B5N2 “Kate”

These were the first aircraft that I examined. My review sample was configuration E, which is the stowed version with folded wingtips and a mounted Type 91 aerial torpedo. These were molded in a translucent white resin. (Note: Afterwards, I also received a few of the Kates in configuration F, which is the flight ready, fully extended wing with torpedo. These were colored in a yellow-orange tinged resin. My comments below on the Kates apply to both configurations that I received.)

I was quite impressed for a number of reasons. The detailing was notable: subtle panel lines and control surface edges, crisp recesses for wheel wells, a beautifully executed, shaped, and open canopy frame with open seating positions within the fuselage beneath the canopy. The torpedo was beautifully rendered and scaled, and positioned with the proper offset starboard to the centerline and in a head down position. Its tail fins, propeller, and attachment points were also sharply done. And, as this particular aircraft configuration has the folded wing option, the exposed end of the wing joint shows proper internal ribbing.

The aircraft is also properly scaled, at least for length, though the wingspan could not be properly measured due to the separate folding wings of this configuration. For comparison’s sake, all the styrene versions were also properly sized.

There were some minute amounts of excess resin material here and there on the fuselage, and a number of projections along the edges of the stabilizers and tailplanes. These are undoubtedly the remnants of attachment points used to anchor the aircraft to its “raft” while being printed. These need to be sanded away. Like-wise, though smooth to the touch, I’m sure the aircraft surface could benefit from a light pass with very fine grit sandpaper or sanding stick as specified in the instructions.

The separate, outboard wing sections for this version are packaged separately, and look to be as nice as the main aircraft. I did note some excess material on the leading edge of one wing, and each underside had three identical placed projection remnants which are also attachment points for the wing to its “raft” during printing. These also need to be removed, but gently and carefully, because there are also two tiny tabs on the inboard, upper edge of the wing that are to be glued to the main wing for the folded appearance.

Also included in this separate package is an extremely thin, printed rod approximately 2 inches long that is meant to be used to make pitot tubes. It was not obvious at first that this was additional material. If I had not read the instructions first, I would have never realized what it was for and might have easily broken or crushed it. So, be advised.

A third storage bag contains right and left landing gear/wheel assemblies and three bladed propellers with hubs. Interestingly, these items are printed in a light yellow-orange tinged resin. As one would hope, the detailing is very good. The tires are formed, the struts have details, and the propeller blades are all canted.

Interestingly, I feel that my digital photos can be a bit misleading. The extreme close-ups reveal the striations resulting from the printing process, particularly when backlit. Also obvious in these digital close-ups are the remains of any excess printed material. So, the impression one might get is that the surfaces are on the crude side when, in fact, this is anything but true.

The surfaces are far smoother to the touch then the close-ups would suggest. The MK.1 eyeball doesn’t pick up the extent of the striations, particularly when more than a few inches away from the surfaces. For the most part, the aircraft and parts appear translucent and smooth. A few passes of a sanding stick are likely to be sufficient to take down any imperfections.

In any case, the printing striations will be eventually be covered by paint. The striations also become less obvious when the resin used is a colored resin.

Mitsubishi A6M2 “Zeros”

For the most part, my comments for the “Zeros” echo those for the Kates regarding their very positive traits. My review set was configuration A, which is flight ready with a centerline drop tank. Like the full wing Kates and Kate parts, these were molded in that same light yellow-orange tinged resin.

I was, however, initially disappointed by one aspect of the Zeros. Most of the wings were noticeably warped upward. While the actual Zero’s wing had a visible dihedral angle, the wings themselves were completely straight. In the review set, beyond the dihedral angle, the wings clearly began to curve upward for four of the six aircraft in the set. The wings of the other two were mostly flat, but the port/left wingtip on both also warped upward slightly.

3D-Wild prints its aircraft with an emphasis on truer 1/350 scale than comparable styrene injection aircraft, and that emphasis applies to wing thickness as well as overall dimensions. In this case, I couldn’t help but wonder if that emphasis on proper scale was counterproductive, because I thought it might lessen the wing’s ability to hold its shape. Truthfully, I didn’t know enough about the material and the process to make an authoritative determination.

So, I reached out to 3D-Wild for comment. I learned that all my review sets were early production versions that were several months old. Based on customer feedback to date, 3D-Wild has have been tweaking their products to improve them. In the case of the Zeros, they have chosen to thicken the wing in order to counter any warpage. They also sent me a new set of Zeros for evaluation.

I’m very pleased to report that the newer batch of Zeros showed no wing warpage. Nor is the thickening of the wing noticeable to any extent. Some of them did suffer, however, from some overzealous packaging. Those fuselages were taped down a little too tightly, resulting in a slight bending of the tailplanes, which also rest upon the edges of the U channel. Fortunately, I was able to gently bend them into their proper position with no ill effects. I also alerted 3D-Wild to the situation, and they took proper note of it.

Aichi D3A1 “Vals”

Overall, the Vals were mostly impressive in the same manner as the Kates and Zeros. This set was configuration B, which consists of stowed wings and ordinance of one 250kg bomb along with two 60kg bombs. Sizing was also accurate. And, like the Zeros and full wing Kates, this set was molded in the same light yellow-orange tinged resin.

Notable about these units is that their signature fixed landing gear with spats was printed as part of the main aircraft, as was a 250kg bomb mounted on the centerline under the cockpit. Even better was the addition of their underwing dive brakes, a feature simply not available on the styrene versions. Also obvious was the relative thinness of their wings as compared to the styrene versions, something not seen to the same extent on the Kates.

The only disappointment lay with the canopy frames. All six seemed to have shrunk down somehow. This problem was also brought to 3D-Wild’s attention and, as with the Zeros, they freely acknowledged that the canopies were subpar. Less certain was the actual reason for the canopy issue. In any case, replacements were issued. The replacements were better, but I still feel the that the pilot’s portion of the canopy frame sits too low over the cockpit.

DECALS
The decals are specific to each type of aircraft, and cover an extraordinary number of historical IJN aircraft in the 1941-1942 timeframe. 3D-Wild has provided 69 unique tail codes for the “Kates”, 46 tail codes for the “Vals”, and 99 tail codes for the “Zeros”. Plus, there’s an assortment of Rising Sun roundels, wing root warning stripes, and ship ID fuselage stripes for all these aircraft, all of which equipped the six front line carriers of the 1st Air Fleet (also known as the Kido Butai, or Mobile Force). The research behind this feature was no doubt meticulous and time-consuming. The decals are beautifully printed and have no registration issues.

By the way, for those modelers unfamiliar with the ships of the Imperial Japanese Navy, those six aircraft carriers are: Akagi, Kaga, Soryu, Hiryu, Shokaku, and Zuikaku.
INSTRUCTIONS
There are two pages of instructions with each set. These are nearly identical, though each version is keyed to the specifics of the airplane type and configuration in that particular set. 3D-Wild does recommend applying a primer to reveal any possible surface imperfections, and then sanding lightly with 600-800 grit sanding paper or stick to remove such imperfections. In fact, the instructions are VERY specific about how and in what direction to sand the fuselage and wings. I would highly recommend taking a moment to review these before attempting any corrective work.

It's important to differentiate about how and when to glue parts. For assembly, most quick drying glues for resin, like cyanoacrylate glue, will work. For repairs, though, it’s a little trickier. Broken parts leave very smooth breaks with this type resin, so there is little “tooth” on the opposing surfaces for a glue to grip.

So, there are two alternative approaches. One is to prime, and perhaps paint, the broken surfaces to enable a glue to grip those surfaces. The other is to use a UV light repair pen on the unpainted surface to bond them together. All of this is covered in a helpful how-to article posted on 3D-Wild’s website regarding assembly and painting: 

https://3d-wild.com/blogs/news/assembly-instruction-of-1-350-scale-aircrafts-produced-by-3d-wild

 
FINAL THOUGHTS
I admit to some mixed feelings about these aircraft. When it comes to this hobby, I am not what the marketing types refer to as an “early adopter”. I prefer the tried and true. I put a lot of effort into my builds, and, if successful, I want the results to have some lasting qualities. That said, I try to be open to new innovations and products, particularly if they add more accurate scale, greater detail and, hopefully, less effort.

These new 3D printed aircraft certainly hold great potential in all those areas. The promise of minimized finishing and assembly as compared to the styrene injection alternatives would be a great timesaver. The inclusion of a printed canopy frame and open cockpit are extremely attractive in terms of minimizing effort for effect. Painting and decaling are a probably bit of a wash between the two mediums, but the extent and quality of the decals are another major advantage of these sets. In fact, given the lack of decal options otherwise available for 1/350 IJN aircraft, this feature alone adds considerably to the implied value of these sets, particularly for a modeler aiming for a high degree of historical accuracy.

Still, the original Zero and all the Val samples show that it’s hard to completely ignore the potential for warpage over time. Nor can one ignore cost. While their cost is not astronomically different on a per set basis when compared to a typical package of styrene aircraft coupled with the addition of photoetch parts, it is also true that one tends to get more units per set of aircraft and accessories using the styrene/PE approach. One must also be mindful of the fragile nature of 3D printed items. It didn’t take much for me to lose focus long enough to break a piece here and there.

Overall, I’d say the bottom line assessment here is that the Kates are great, the Zeros good, and the Vals less so.  With that said (or written), I do think the potential of these aircraft are worth the leap of faith for most modelers. It helps greatly that 3D-WILD has placed an emphasis on customer service. They will reasonably replace any aircraft that arrives warped or damaged-in-transit due to packaging for free. One just needs to contact them with an explanation and photographic evidence of the issue(s). They also appear to be diligent about continual product improvement, so my hopes are that the product does meet the promise over time.

Recommended.

A sincere thanks to 3D-Wild for the review sets. The sets are available direct from 3D-Wild’s website:  https://3d-wild.com/   Their retail price is US$29 per set of six aircraft.


 
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