Plating is one of the most
challenging ship characteristics to replicate in miniature form. |
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Three major factors contribute to this challenge.
One factor is the scale thickness. It is extremely difficult not to overdo
the thickness of the plating. Paper, litho plate, and sheet styrene all
seem to overwhelm the model, especially smaller scale models.
Another factor in model plating is compound curves.
Ship hulls are complicated, three-dimensional shapes. The plating process,
therefore, is labor intensive, with results not always satisfactory. A
third negative aspect of plating by conventional techniques is whether
or not the material used will adhere to the hull. Gluing dissimilar materials
is unacceptable to most modelers' standards. Sooner or later the materials
will separate due to the different rates of expansion and contraction,
especially on areas as large as a model ship hull.
These three factors contribute largely to the absence
of hull plating on model ships. Dissatisfied with the results provided
by known plating techniques, I sought a better process. While removing
a mask from a model that had been painted, I studied the small ridge of
paint caused by the tape separating the colors. It seemed feasible that
I could control this ridge and produce the quality of plating I desired. |
MATERIALS |
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The following materials are needed: #600 wet or
dry sandpaper; Dupont 30 S Platinum Grey Hi-speed primer; Dupont 36085
Lacquer thinner; Dupont 30 S Platinum Grey Hi-speed primer; Dupont 3608S
Lacquer thinner; Dupont 3919S Prep Sol Solvent; 3M Scotch Magic tape and
#0000 steel wool.
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STEP ONE Hull Preparation |
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I primed the surface of my completed hull, and finished
it smooth with #600 wet and dry sandpaper. Since the plating did not hide
any defects in the hull, I had to be sure all blemishes were sanded out
during the priming process. I prepared the hull as if I was going to add
the final color coat. |
STEP TWO Layout |
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It is critical that the plating layout is completed
precisely, With a soft lead pencil, I transferred plating lines to the
hull, being as accurate as possible. In order to accurately transfer
lines, I used a copy of the actual builders' plating plan (pictures of
the actual vessel were also helpful in complicated areas). In laying out
the plating, built it into the hull from aft forward, so that all joints
lap away from the forward movement of the ship. If the hull is correctly
shaped it should coincide with the plating plan. If you have problems with
the measurements not matching your hull, check your hull measurements to
identify the problem. |
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STEP THREE: Applying Inside Strake
Plating |
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Often one line of plates or strakes will be an inside
run and those on either side will be outside runs, producing the joggled
effect. For joggled plating, the inside strakes are applied first. Since
only the butt joints show, only these are applied. I usually started at
the top and worked toward the keel completing two or three full runs (bow
to stern), and applying port and starboard runs at the same time, alternating
between sides.
I laid down a mask covering the outside strakes from bow
to stern, leaving the inside strake exposed. I masked off the butt joints
with the tape on the stern side of the line. Using an airbrush, I applied
two or three heavy coats of primer to the butt joint mask only. I did not
spray the entire area inside the mask; applying paint only to the area
of the butt joint mask, making sure to feather the paint away from the
mask. I applied paint to all butt joint masks of the entire strake from
bow to stern, and then proceeded to the next strake. |
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Note: Some areas, especially around
the stern, were somewhat tricky to mask because of the extremely sharp
compound curves. If 3M Scotch Magic tape won't conform to these small curves,
cut regular masking tape into thin strips for these areas.
As I finished one side of the hull, I applied paint
to the other side in the same manner. When I completed the second side,
I went back and applied two more heavy coats to the first side, and then
repeated it on the second side. This flip-flop technique in applying the
paint helped to keep the lacquer from attacking the glue on the tape. After
the paint had glazed over, I carefully removed the mask. The inside strake
was now completed on the entire hull.
Note: Think heavy when applying paint. It's difficult
to go back and mask off areas that do not have enough depth, especially
inside stakes. With an airbrush, it is almost impossible to apply too much
paint. The plating will be wet sanded later, so even when you think you
have too much paint, apply more. Allow the paint to fully glaze over (approximately
thirty minutes to one hour); then remove the tape mask.
After 24 hours, I cleaned up any tape residue left
from the mask with Prep-Sol and a cotton swab. I lightly dry sanded the
butt joints with #600 wet or dry sandpaper. I paid special attention to
the area around the butt joint. If you try this,
you should have a crisp edge, about the thickness of cellophane on
a pack of cigarettes, that feathers away no more than 1/4" toward the bow. |
STEP FOUR Applying Outside Strake
Plating |
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Under ideal conditions it usually takes lacquer
72 hours to completely cure. If you're careful, however, you should be
able to apply the outside strakes after 24 hours.
I masked off the outside strakes, applying the tape
to cover the inside butt joints. Applying this mask proceeded fairly quickly,
as the corners of the butt joints were a guide for the tape. The tape just
touched the corners or be set back just a little, exposing a small portion
of the butt joint corner. The result was a mask that exposed the full area
of the outside strake. |
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I marked off the butt joints on the tape with a pencil
(after the next step these lines for the joints won't be visible). Inside
the mask, I applied three to four heavy coats on the full length of the
hull, building up the strake (Illustration Two). I did the same to the
other side. As the paint glazed over, I applied another heavy coat or two
so that this area was sufficiently thicker than the application of paint
completed in step three (applying inside strake plating). Before this area
had dried, I gently scraped away the overspray on the tape exposing the
marks for the butt joints. By the time you have uncovered your reference
marks for the butt joints, the paint should have glazed over enough for
a light sanding.
I lightly dry sanded the outside strake leaving the
fine chalk on the hull. The chalk helped ensure that the tape for the butt
joints didn't pull off the paint. I applied the masks for the butt joints
with only enough pressure to hold the tape. I applied the paint to simulate
the butt joints, lightly feathering away from the mask as in step three
(Illustration Three). After this was completed, I carefully removed the
masks.
I waited at least 72 hours (one week is better),
and with Pre•Sol and a cotton swab, I gently removed the tape residue from
the plating. Steel wool and Pre-Sol were also helpful to remove the unwanted
residue. After I removed all residue, I lightly wet sanded the entire hull
with #600 wet or dry sandpaper. |
SUMMARY |
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The results of using this relatively quick technique are a beautifully
plated model with scale thickness hull plating and a material that will
last the lifetime of the model. Ship models with full hull plating are
impressive and capture much attention , especially from other modelers. |
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Additional Information on Hull plating
details |
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Some ship hulls had additional strengthening
features such as butt straps on critical areas of stress. From the models
I have built I have included this feature on the hull of ships that required
them. There are two design types I have seen used and these are a simple
rectangular strip and a more complicated saw tooth or zig zag pattern.
Both types are the width of the plate and the rectangular type is replicated
by simply masking off the area with a 1/16 inch gap between the mask left
to apply paint build up. (Note this is for a 1/192 scale model.) The zig
zag pattern had me stumped on how to make a mask that would "transfer"
this type of pattern to the ship hull. This was going to be a very time
consuming mask to cut and the destroyer model had several of these type
of butt straps. The solution came to me by accident. During the plating
process of the model my eye was caught by the serrated edge of the tape
as I was using it to plate the model. Eureka! It was a perfect pattern
that matched the saw tooth style of the prototype. The ends of the tape
as you cut with the serrated portion of the dispenser make a perfect pattern
for 1/192 scale models. Simply apply them with ends over the seams of the
plating with a 1/16 inch gap left between them for the paint build up.
A simple, effective, perfectzig zag butt plate. |